View source for Daopao

{{short description|Traditional Chinese attire for men}}
{{Infobox Chinese
| c = [[wikt:道袍|道袍]]
| p = dàopáo
| l = Taoist robe
| pic = Hanfu daopao.jpg
| piccap = Daopao (道袍)/ Xingyi (行衣) - formal wear for men
| lang1 = English
| lang1_content = Taoist robe
| hangul = 도포
| hanja = 道袍
| rr = [[Dopo (clothing)|dopo]]
| lk = Taoist robe
| koreanname = Dopo
}}
'''{{Transliteration|zh|Daopao}}''' ({{Lang-zh|p=dàopáo|c=道袍|l=Taoist robe}}), also known as '''{{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=褶子}}) when used as a {{Transliteration|zh|[[Xifu (Costume)|Xifu]]}} during [[Chinese opera]] performances,<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|last=Ye|first=Tan|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1128888776|title=Historical dictionary of Chinese theater|date=2020|isbn=978-1-5381-2064-4|edition=Second|location=Lanham|pages=48|oclc=1128888776}}</ref><ref name=":5">{{Cite book|last=Wang|first=Guojun|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1129398697|title=Staging personhood : costuming in early Qing drama|date=2020|isbn=978-0-231-54957-8|location=New York|oclc=1129398697}}</ref>{{Rp|page=181}} and '''{{Transliteration|zh|deluo}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=得罗}}) when it is blue in colour,<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/43293523|title=Pi lu si bi hua|date=1998|publisher=Hebei mei shu chu ban she|others=Dianfeng Kang, 康殿峰.|isbn=7-5310-1111-5|edition=Di 1 ban|location=Shijiazhuang Shi|pages=244|oclc=43293523}}</ref> is a traditional form of {{Transliteration|zh|[[paofu]]}} in {{Transliteration|zh|[[Hanfu]]}} and is also one of the most distinctive form of traditional clothing for the Han Chinese.<ref name=":11">{{Cite journal |last1=Song |first1=Ma |last2=yue |first2=Li |last3=xiaogang |first3=Wang |date=2021-07-01 |title=Research on the Ming Dynasty Dao Robe Modeling Method Based on 3D Simulation Technology |journal=Journal of Physics: Conference Series |volume=1965 |issue=1 |pages=012040 |doi=10.1088/1742-6596/1965/1/012040 |bibcode=2021JPhCS1965a2040S |issn=1742-6588 |doi-access=free}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was one of the most common traditional form of outer [[robe]] worn by men.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Gwynne|first=Paul|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/972639879|title=World religions in practice : a comparative introduction|date=2017|isbn=978-1-118-97227-4|edition=Second|location=Hoboken, NJ|pages=222|oclc=972639879}}</ref> {{Transliteration|zh|Daopao}} literally means "Taoist robe";<ref name=":14" /><ref name=":2">{{Cite book |last=Herrou |first=Adeline |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1011219060 |title=A World of Their Own : Daoist Monks and Their Community in Contemporary China. |date=2016 |publisher=Three Pines Press |isbn=978-1-365-53752-3 |location=St Petersburg |pages=43–45 |oclc=1011219060}}</ref> however, despite its name, the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} were and is worn by men, and did not imply that its wearer had some affiliation to [[taoism]].<ref name=":1" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} can be dated back to at least the [[Ming dynasty]]<ref name=":1" /> but had actually been worn since the [[Song dynasty]].{{cn|date=August 2023}} Initially the daopao was a form of casual clothing which was worn by the middle or lower class in the Ming dynasty.<ref name=":4" /> In the middle and late Ming, it was one of the most common form of robes worn by men as casual clothing.<ref name=":11" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was also a popular formal wear by the [[Ming Dynasty|Ming dynasty]] scholars in their daily lives.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=77}} It was also the daily clothing for the literati scholars in the Ming dynasty.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=181}} In the late Ming, it was also a popular form of clothing among the external officials and eunuchs sometimes wore it.<ref name=":12">{{Cite journal |last=Yuan |first=Zujie |date=2007 |title=Dressing for power: Rite, costume, and state authority in Ming Dynasty China |url=https://brill.com/abstract/journals/fhic/2/2/article-p181_4.xml |journal=Frontiers of History in China |language=en |volume=2 |issue=2 |pages=181–212 |doi=10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x |issn=1673-3401 |s2cid=195069294}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was also introduced in Korea during the [[Joseon]] period, where it became known as {{Transliteration|ko|[[dopo (clothing)|dopo]]}} and was eventually localized in its current form.<ref name=":17">{{Cite journal |date=1998 |title=A Study on the Origin and Structural Development of Do-po |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO199811919949101.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=36 |pages=1–23 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref>
The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} can also refer to a type of {{Transliteration|zh|[[Daojiao fushi]]}}, which were worn by practitioners of taoism, when the term is used in its literal form.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Wang |first=Richard G. |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/796803927 |title=The Ming prince and Daoism : institutional patronage of an elite |date=2012 |publisher=Oxford University Press |isbn=978-0-19-990989-6 |location=New York |oclc=796803927}}</ref>{{Rp|page=xvii}} This form of {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} worn taoist practitioners and taoist monks continued to be worn in the [[Qing dynasty]] as they were exempted from the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Tifayifu]]}} policy.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=181}} The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} of the Taoist also continue to be worn by modern taoist priests, although it may come in different names.
== {{Transliteration|zh|Daopao}} in {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} ==
{{See also|Fashion in the Yuan dynasty}}
=== History and origins ===
{{Main|Zhiduo (clothing)|l1 = Zhiduo and Zhishen}}
Some sources posit that a form of {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} without a cord had evolved from the {{Transliteration|zh|[[shanku|kuzhe]]}}, which refers to the military-style garments which had supposedly been influenced by the northern nomad warriors from the north in the past.<ref name="Finnane">{{cite book |author=Antonia Finnane |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Ju3N4VeiQ28C |title=Changing clothes in China: fashion, history, nation |publisher=[[Columbia University Press]] |year=2007 |isbn=978-0-231-14350-9 |pages=44–45}}</ref> According to [[Antonia Finnane]] who noted the {{Transliteration|zh|Gubu gulu}}《觚不觚錄》of Wang Shizhen (1526-1590), the three robes which evolved from the {{Transliteration|zh|kuzhe}}-style was the {{Transliteration|zh|[[yesa robe|yesa]]}}, the ''[[chengziyi]]'' (程子衣) worn with a chord around the waist, and the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} worn without chord.<ref name="Finnane" />{{Rp|page=45}}<ref name=":16">{{Cite web |last=Wang |first=Zhishen |title=Gubu Gulu |script-title=zh:觚不觚录 |url=https://zh.wikisource.org/wiki/%E8%A7%9A%E4%B8%8D%E8%A7%9A%E9%8C%84 |access-date=2022-06-25 |website=zh.wikisource.org |language=zh-Hans}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|yesa}} of this period was a type of new garment which only appeared in the Ming dynasty and was likely localized from and developed under the influence of the [[jisün]] the Yuan dynasty.<ref name=":152">{{Cite journal |last=Wei |first=Luo |date=2018-01-02 |title=A Preliminary Study of Mongol Costumes in the Ming Dynasty |url=https://doi.org/10.1080/02529203.2018.1414417 |journal=Social Sciences in China |volume=39 |issue=1 |pages=165–185 |doi=10.1080/02529203.2018.1414417 |issn=0252-9203 |s2cid=149138176}}</ref><ref name=":22">{{Cite journal |last=Wang |first=Chen |date=2014-09-01 |title=Conservation study of Ming dynasty silk costumes excavated in Jiangsu region, China |url=https://doi.org/10.1179/204705814X13975704319154 |journal=Studies in Conservation |volume=59 |issue=sup1 |pages=S177–S180 |doi=10.1179/204705814X13975704319154 |s2cid=191384101 |issn=0039-3630}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|chengziyi}} was developed in the late Ming and bore some similarities with the {{Transliteration|zh|yesa}}.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Li |first=Laiyu |date=2017 |title=Mingdai nanzi fushi——yunxiang yishang xilie |script-title=zh:明代男子服饰——云想衣裳系列 |trans-title=Men's Clothing in Ming Dynasty - Yunxiang Clothing Series |url=http://www.kaogu.cn/cn/kaoguyuandi/kaogubaike/2017/0704/58783.html |access-date=2022-06-25 |website=www.kaogu.cn |language=zh}}</ref> In the same ancient text, Wang Shizhen also noted that the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was also called {{Transliteration|zh|[[zhiduo (clothing)|zhiduo]]}}.<ref name=":16" /> However, the {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was another kind of {{Transliteration|zh|[[paofu]]}} which had predated the [[Yuan dynasty]] and can be traced back to the [[Tang dynasty]].<ref name=":43">{{Cite journal |last=Cheng |first=Fung Kei |date=2020-07-28 |title=Intertwined Immersion: The Development of Chinese Buddhist Master Costumes as an Example |url=https://www.fssh-journal.org/index.php/jrs/article/view/77 |journal=Religious Studies |language=en |volume=8 |issue=1 |pages=23–44 |issn=0536-2326}}</ref><ref name=":32">{{Cite book |last=Yifa |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/52763904 |title=The origins of Buddhist monastic codes in China : an annotated translation and study of the Chanyuan qinggui |date=2002 |publisher=University of Hawaii Press |others=Zongze |isbn=0-585-46406-5 |location=Honolulu |pages=252 |oclc=52763904}}</ref>
Other Chinese sources also indicate that the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} had been worn since the [[Song Dynasty|Song dynasty]] (960–1279).{{cn|date=August 2023}} After the year 960 AD, the belted {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was worn by the Taoist priests in order to distinguish themselves from others.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Snodgrass |first=Mary Ellen |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/910448387 |title=World Clothing and Fashion : an Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. |date=2015 |publisher=Taylor and Francis |isbn=978-1-317-45167-9 |location=Hoboken |pages=488 |oclc=910448387}}</ref> The broad and elegant robes which were initially worn by [[Daoshi|Taoist priests]] were known as the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} ({{Lang-zh|c=道服|p=dàofú|l=Taoist clothing}}; sometimes translated as "Taoist priest robe").<ref name=":8">{{Cite book |last1=Zhu |first1=Ruixi |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/953576345 |title=A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties |last2=朱瑞熙 |date=2016 |others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu |isbn=978-1-107-16786-5 |edition=Updated |location=Cambridge, United Kingdom |pages= |oclc=953576345}}</ref>{{Rp|page=21}}
==== Song dynasty ====
{{See also|Daojiao fushi}}
In the Northern Song dynasty, [[Taoism]] was highly revered.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Chengyu |first=Fang, Alex |url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/1050008489 |title=The Language and Iconography of Chinese Charms Deciphering a Past Belief System |date=2016 |publisher=Springer Singapore, Imprint: Springer |isbn=978-981-10-1793-3 |oclc=1050008489}}</ref>{{Rp|page=94}} During this period, the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} also became very popular and was greatly appreciated by some hermits and scholars during the Song dynasty and was mentioned in some poems written by [[Wang Yucheng]] and [[Fan Zhongyan]].<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=21}} Some scholars, such Shi Manqing (994 –1041), who was a celebrated scholar in the Northern Song dynasty, would often wore a {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} with a scarf worn in a free style.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=21}} The Shi Manqin-style {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} was liked by some officials who were in their retirement; and therefore, they dressed in this form of {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}}.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=21}}
In the Southern Song dynasty, it was [[Neo-Confucianism]] which arose and flourished; a new form of {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} became fashionable; this form of {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} was the garment worn by the scholars which followed the {{Transliteration|zh|Daoxue}} ({{Linktext|道學}}) Confucianism.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=22}} In the book ''Rules of Moral Teaching study'' by [[Zhu Xi]], Zhu Xi stressed on the importance of dress code as being the first step for a person to be a "decent person".<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=5}} Since Zhu Xi put so much emphasis on the dress code, the literati eventually gradually developed their own dressing style as an accepted custom, which included the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} which was worn as a form of leisure clothing.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=5}} Contemporary observers living in the Southern Song dynasty, such as [[:zh:史繩祖|Shi Shengzu]] (1192－1274), also noted that the return of the [[classic]]-style apparel in the Song dynasty had made the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} popular.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=22}} In Volume 2 of the chapter {{Transliteration|zh|Xuezhai zhanbi}}《{{Linktext|学斋占毕}}》in the {{Transliteration|zh|Yinshi yifu jinjiebiangu}}《{{Linktext|飲食衣服今皆變古}}》, Shi Shengzu reported that the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} had been made popular by the use of {{Transliteration|zh|[[guan (headwear)|guan]]}} and the shoes called {{Transliteration|zh|lü}}; he associated the reason behind the popularity of {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} with the attire style of the Taoist priests, which he observed, had remained unchanged for centuries.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=22}} He also concluded that the apparel system of the three ancient Chinese dynasties, referred collectively as the {{Transliteration|zh|Sandai}} ({{Linktext|三代}}), could still be found among the attire-style of the Taoist priests.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=22}}
{{Multiple image
| total_width    = 300
| image1      = Two men in daopao from liu songnian painting.jpg
| image2      = 儒巾 五百罗汉像轴之一 南宋 周季常日本大德寺藏.png
| align       = center
| footer      = Men wearing daopao, from paintings of the Southern Song dynasty.
| footer_align   = center
}}
==== Ming dynasty ====
During the [[Ming dynasty]], the traditional clothing system of the Han Chinese, the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Hanfu]]}}, was restored following the fall of the Mongol-led [[Yuan dynasty]].<ref name=":11" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} and the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} continued to be worn in the Ming dynasty; the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was similar to the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} in the Ming dynasty, with the presence of decorative border trims on the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} as an exception.<ref name=":9">{{Cite web |title=Chinese Traditional Costume - Ming Style Daofu for Male |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/7096.html |access-date=2021-08-14 |website=www.newhanfu.com |date=22 October 2020 |language=en-US}}</ref> However, despite the restoration of the {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}-system by the Ming dynasty court, the shape of some garment, including the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}}, had some differences from the ones worn in the Tang and Song dynasties as the clothing in the Ming dynasty had undergone a series of adjustments to their shapes.<ref name=":11" /> The shape of the Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}}, and its colours, was strictly regulated by the political systems, rules and regulations of the time.<ref name=":11" />
{{Multiple image
| total_width    = 300
| image1      = Daopao4.jpg
| image2      = Daopao2.jpg
| align       = center
| footer      = A man wearing daopao (left) and another man wearing daofu (right), Ming dynasty portraits.
| footer_align   = center
}}
=== Construction and design ===
==== Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} ====
[[File:Daopao (Ming dynasty style).jpg|thumb|293x293px|Ming dynasty-style {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}}]]
The Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} is a full-length. It has a large frontal outer placket and smaller frontal inner placket. There is a pair of ties at the small placket and two pairs of ties on the large placket which is used for closing the garment.<ref name=":11" /> The sleeves are large but are narrower around the wrists.<ref name=":11" /> It characterized by a cross collar, which closes at the right side in the front, in a style called {{Transliteration|zh|[[Garment collars in Hanfu#Jiaoling youren|jiaoling youren]]}}.<ref name=":11" />[[File:Shenyi-daopao diff.jpg|left|thumb|Differences between {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|[[shenyi]]}}.]]It is also not completely stitched at the two sides and allows for side slits to begin below the waist level.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":11" /> At the sides of the robes, there are side panels in the form of concealed swing or pendulum structure (i.e. a front and back swings at each sides of the robe).<ref name=":11" /> These side panels at these slits, are called {{Transliteration|zh|anbai}} ({{Lang-zh|c=暗擺|p=ànbǎi}}), and they were designed to conceal undergarments.
[[File:Imperial Encyclopaedia - Ceremonial Usages - pic351 - 大帶.png|thumb|Illustration of the {{Transliteration|zh|dadai}}.]]
The neckline of the robe is often decorated with white or plain collars.<ref name=":11" /> The collar can be either the same or a different colour to the main pieces of fabric. However, the collar is generally the same colour as the hems. An optional additional protective collar called {{Transliteration|zh|huling}} ({{Lang-zh|s=护领|t=護領|p=hù lǐng|l=protective collar}}) could also be sewn to the first collar. The {{Transliteration|zh|huling}} either be white or dark in colour.{{Citation needed|date=July 2021}}
A belt called {{Transliteration|zh|dadai}} ({{Lang-zh|c=|p=dàdài|l=large belt|s=大带|t=大帶}}) was also fastened around the waist. In total, the structure of the Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was made up of 10 parts.<ref name=":11" />
[[File:Daopao.jpg|thumb|306x306px|A man wearing a daofu with a dadai belt worn around the waist; it is edged with light blue decorative trims, Ming dynasty portrait.]]
==== Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} ====
In the [[Ming dynasty]], the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} was a wide-sleeved, crossed-collar robe which closes to the right in a style called {{Transliteration|zh|[[Garment collars in Hanfu#Jiaoling youren|jiaoling youren]]}}; it also had dark edging at the edges of the collar, sleeves, and placket.<ref name=":9" /> In the collar edge, the {{Transliteration|zh|huling}} was sometimes inserted.<ref name=":9" /> The Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} was similar to the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}}, except for the addition of edges decoration on the robe.<ref name=":9" /> Belts, like the {{Transliteration|zh|dadai}} ({{Lang-zh|c=|p=|l=|s=大带|t=大帶}}) and the {{Transliteration|zh|sitao}} ({{Lang-zh|c=|p=sītāo|l=silk waistband|s=丝绦|t=絲絛}}; i.e. a ribbon or a thin rope made of silk) was also used around the waist when wearing the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}}.<ref name=":9" />
{{Clear}}
== Derivatives and influences ==
=== China ===
==== {{Transliteration|zh|Xuezi}} ====
{{Main|Xifu (Costume)}}
[[File:20150803203805 IMG 0659 (19668286223).jpg|left|thumb|273x273px|A man performing as a {{Transliteration|zh|[[xiaosheng]]}} in {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}}, {{Transliteration|zh|[[Kunqu]]}}]]
The {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} ({{Lang-zh|c=褶子}}) which is a costume in {{Transliteration|zh|[[Xifu (Costume)|Xifu]]}}, is a derivative of the Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} which was worn by the Ming dynasty scholars as an every day formal attire.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=77, 181}}It is also a derivative of the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Paofu#Zhou dynasty|jiaolingpao]]}} which dates back from the [[Zhou dynasty]].<ref name=":13">{{Cite book |last=Bonds |first=Alexandra B. |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/256864936 |title=Beijing opera costumes : the visual communication of character and culture |date=2008 |publisher=University of Hawaiʻi Press |isbn=978-1-4356-6584-2 |location=Honolulu |oclc=256864936}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=|page=54}}
In the [[Qing dynasty]], actors who performed in [[Chinese opera]] performance were allowed to wear {{Transliteration|zh|[[Hanfu]]}} and {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}-style {{Transliteration|zh|Xifu}} as they were exempted from the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Tifayifu]]}} policy.<ref name=":62">{{Cite book |last=Su |first=Wenhao |title=Proceedings of the 3rd International Conference on Art Studies: Science, Experience, Education (ICASSEE 2019) |chapter=Study on the Inheritance and Cultural Creation of Manchu Qipao Culture |date=2019 |chapter-url=https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/icassee-19/125923391 |journal=Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research |language=en |publisher=Atlantis Press |volume=368 |pages=208–211 |doi=10.2991/icassee-19.2019.41 |isbn=978-94-6252-837-6|s2cid=213865603 |doi-access=free }}</ref> Therefore, the {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} was therefore allowed to be worn and continues to be worn even in present days, where it is now one of the most common form of costumes worn on stage.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=77, 181}}
When used in Chinese opera, the {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} is a form of informal dress worn by performers who hold the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Sheng role|sheng]]}} role types, which include the {{Transliteration|zh|[[xiaosheng]]}}<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=31–32|page=}} and the {{Transliteration|zh|wenxiaosheng}}.<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=3}} Performers playing female roles could also wear a {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} called {{Transliteration|zh|nüxuezi}}'','' which was also used as an informal robe.<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=|page=54}}
===== Construction and design =====
The {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} is structurally different from the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Paofu#Zhou dynasty|jiaolingpao]]}}: the {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} has a trapezoid body, narrower sleeves which is tubular in shape, the sleeves are longer than the wrists, and [[water sleeves]] are also added; there is an asymmetrical closure where the right side is right below the shoulder and neck intersection while the left crossing over is tied right under the right arm in a style called {{Transliteration|zh|[[Garment collars in Hanfu#Jiaoling youren|jiaoling youren]]}}.<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=|page=54}} There are also differences in the shapes and forms of the {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} depending on the role types:
Actors performing the role of men wear a full-length {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} while actors performing the role of women wear a knee-length {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}}; the male {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} has a {{Transliteration|zh|[[Garment collars in Hanfu#Jiaoling youren|jiaoling youren]]}} closure while there are two types of closure for the {{Transliteration|zh|nüxuezi}}, one which has a {{Transliteration|zh|[[Garment collars in Hanfu#Jiaoling youren|jiaoling youren]]}} closure and one which has front central closure,<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=54, 276–294|page=}} a style which can be referred as {{Transliteration|zh|[[Garment collars in Hanfu#Central front collars|duijin]]}}.
''The {{Transliteration|zh|wenxiaosheng}}'' often wears {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} of pastel colours, which is embroidered with flowers and has [[water sleeves]].<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=3, 6}}
=== Korea ===
{{Main|Dopo (clothing)|l1 = Dopo - a Korean equivalent}}
The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was imported from the [[Ming dynasty]] to Korea during the [[Joseon]] period, where it became known as {{Transliteration|ko|[[dopo (clothing)|dopo]]}} and was eventually localized in Korea gaining its current form.<ref name=":17" /> In this period, the intellectual current which had been popularized in Joseon was the [[Cheng–Zhu school|Zhuzi studies]] (viz. {{Linktext|程朱理學}}: {{Linktext|程子理學}} and {{Linktext|朱子理學}}) which was of Chinese origins.<ref name=":18">{{Cite book |last=Li. |first=David C. S. |url=http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1303084702 |title=Brush Conversation in the Sinographic Cosmopolis Interactional Cross-border Communication Using Literary Sinitic in Early Modern East Asia |publisher=Taylor & Francis |others=David Li; Reijiro Aoyama; Tak-sum Wong |year=2022 |isbn=9781000579871 |oclc=1303084702}}</ref> According to the Joseon literati, Sŏng Tae-chung, who visited [[Japan]] in the 1764 at a time when the Ming dynasty had already fallen, when asked what he wore as a robe and headwear by Ryūzan, Sŏng Tae-chung answered that he was wearing the {{Transliteration|ko|dopo}} and the {{Transliteration|ko|[[Fujin (headgear)|bokgeon]]}} which were the attire of the ancient sages 《冠幅巾衣道袍, 乃古聖賢所着》; the {{Transliteration|ko|dopo}} and {{Transliteration|ko|bokgeon}} were both Confucian attire and dressing style which had been adopted in Joseon.<ref name=":18" />
== {{Transliteration|zh|Daojiao Fushi}} ==
{{Main|Taoism|Daojiao fushi}}
{{See also|List of Hanfu}}
[[File:万寿八仙宫.jpg|thumb|Taoist clergy wearing the ''daopao'' and ''[[hechang]]'' of {{ill|Baxian Temple|zh|八仙宫}}, [[Xi'an]], 1910-1911.]]
The traditional clothing worn by the Taoist community is connected to pre-modern Chinese clothing and styles.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book |last=Komjathy |first=Louis |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cH_jBAAAQBAJ&q=taoist+clothing+jieyi&pg=PT259 |title=The Daoist tradition : an introduction |date=2013 |isbn=978-1-4411-1669-7 |location=London |pages=290 |oclc=819275585}}</ref> Tradition-based taoists will often wear the traditional robes and liturgical clothing for formal religious and ritual occasions while [[Zhengyi Dao|Zhengyi]] priests and taoists priests outside mainland China tend to wear [[Western wear|Western clothing]] in their daily lives.<ref name=":3" /> The traditional taoist robes can also be worn as a daily lives clothing by the [[Quanzhen School|Quanzhen]] monastics in mainland China.<ref name=":3" /> There were many forms of daojiao fushi in the ancient China.
=== Daopao/ hechang ===
Some forms of taoist robes are also referred as [[Beizi|crane robes]] (hechang, 鶴氅).<ref name=":42">{{Cite book |last=Zhuo |first=Xinping |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1017489156 |title=Religious faith of the Chinese |date=2018 |isbn=978-981-10-6379-4 |location=Singapore |pages=44 |oclc=1017489156}}</ref> The Taoist priests' daopao which date back to at least the 1800s is not cross collared and instead looks like a [[beizi]] in terms of construction and design; a clothing artefact showing this style of daopao is now stored in museums such as the [[Rhode Island School of Design Museum]].<ref name=":10" /> The Taoist's priest daopao are commonly worn by the Taoism priests.<ref name=":14">{{Cite web |title=From the Land of the Immortals {{!}} RISD Museum |url=https://risdmuseum.org/exhibitions-events/exhibitions/land-immortals |access-date=2022-05-14 |website=risdmuseum.org}}</ref> It is worn by middle-ranks Taoist priests; it is red in colour and has motifs at the back and front, on the sleeves.<ref name=":10">{{Cite web|title=Daopao (Taoist priest's robe) {{!}} RISD Museum|url=https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/daopao-taoist-priests-robe-19900823|access-date=2021-04-05|website=risdmuseum.org}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=R3Sp6TfzhpIC&dq=taoism%20daopao&pg=PA457|title=The encyclopedia of taoism|date=2002|publisher=Curzon|others=Fabrizio Pregadio|isbn=978-1-135-79634-1|location=Richmond|pages=457|oclc=810277082}}</ref> Theses motifs decorations can include, the [[bagua]] and cranes.<ref name=":0" /><gallery mode="packed">
File:西塞2017·神舟前的道士.jpg|A taoist priest wearing a modern-day taoist's daopao (depicted as a red overcoat), 2017.
File:WangChangyue.jpg|Wang Changyue, Qing dynasty.
File:Taopriest.jpg|Taoist Priest in Macau, 2006.
</gallery>
=== Jiangyi ===
Jiangyi ({{Lang-zh|c=絳衣|p=jiàngyī}}), also known as "robe of descent" which refers to either the descent of a priest from the altar or of the spirits to the altar, is a common form of Taoist priest's clothing.<ref name=":14" /> The jiangyi is a sign of the higher priestly rank and is worn by grandmasters.<ref name=":14" /><ref name=":10" /> It was worn at least since the Ming and Qing dynasties.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Daoist Robe, 17th century, China |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/53609 |access-date=2022-05-14 |website=www.metmuseum.org}}</ref>
It looks similar to a [[poncho]] in structure;<ref name=":14" /> when worn, the robe sits squarely on the shoulders of the Taoist' priest; it is usually fastened across the front with two silk ties which are sewn just above the waist level.<ref name=":15">{{Cite web |title=Daoist Robe |url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O73556/ |access-date=2022-05-14 |website=Victoria and Albert Museum: Explore the Collections |language=en}}</ref> It is made of embroidered silks and is composed of a large square of satin fabric folded into two to form the shoulder line; the shoulder lines continues to the hem of the sleeves.<ref name=":15" /> The robe is slashed in the middle to form the collar of the robe.<ref name=":15" /> It is typically trimmed with border decorations.<ref name=":15" /><gallery>
File:邵元節.jpg|Zhengyi taoist priest wearing jiangyi, Ming dynasty.
File:Daoist priest's robe (jiangyi), China, Qing dynasty, late 18th to early 19th century AD, silk, metal-wrapped silk, view 1 - Textile Museum, George Washington University - DSC09658.JPG|Daoist priest's robe (jiangyi), China, Qing dynasty, late 18th to early 19th century AD/
File:Daoist Priest's Robe (China), 19th century (CH 18464275-2).jpg|Daoist Priest's Robe (jiangyi), 19th century
File:MET TP478.jpg|Daoist Priest's Robe (jiangyi), late 18th–early 19th century
File:Daoist priest's robe, China, Honolulu Museum of Art 1678.1.JPG|Daoist priest's robe (jiangyi), China, 20th century.
</gallery>[[File:MET_30_76_28_F_sf.jpg|thumb|A priest's robe, China, 20th century]]
[[File:Imperial_Encyclopaedia_-_Ceremonial_Usages_-_pic481_-_道衣.png|left|thumb|216x216px|Illustration of a man wearing daoyi (道衣) from ''[[Gujin Tushu Jicheng]]'', between 1700 and 1725.]]
=== Daoyi ===
The [[Quanzhen School|Quanzhen]] monastic taoist priests and nuns wear a wide-sleeved, cross-collared gown called '''daoyi''' (道衣; lit. "robe of the Dao") which closes to the right; it is a standard type of clothing.<ref name=":3" /> The sleeves of the daoyi is referred as "cloud sleeves"; they are wide, open at the ends, and their sleeves are so long that it is past the fingers when extended but can be even longer.<ref name=":3" /> In the Quanzhen order, the dagua is worn as one of the ordinary clothing while the deluo is a formal clothing.<ref name=":0" />
=== Deluo ===
[[File:道家_-_Taoist_(8003104242).jpg|thumb|A modern-day Taoist.]]The '''deluo''' (得罗) is a cross-collared gown with large sleeves.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2020 |title=What is Taoist Clothing? - 2021 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/4161.html |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210125015032/https://www.newhanfu.com/4161.html |archive-date=2021-01-25 |access-date=2021-04-05 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}</ref> It is worn by Taoist priests of the [[Quanzhen School|Quanzhen order]] is a formal ritual dress which is indigo in colour.<ref name=":0" /> The blue colour is a symbolism for the east and represents having been descended from the first patriarch of the [[Quanzhen School|Quanzhen school]], [[Donghua dijun]].<ref name=":0" /> In large temples (e.g. Baiyunguan in Beijing), the deluo would be worn by monastics on festival days; the deluo would have wide sleeves which could reach 45&nbsp;cm.<ref name=":2" />
=== Daogua ===
In the Wengong temple in [[Hanzhong]], the cross-collar daopao is the standard form of attire and is referred as '''daogua''' ({{Lang-zh|c=道褂|l=Taoist robe or jacket}} depending on context).<ref name=":2" /> Their daopao is cross-collared at the front, and the sleeves are so long that only the fingers can escape from the sleeves.<ref name=":2" /> It is made of thick garments and is blue or black in colour.<ref name=":2" /> The daogua can be found in 3 types: dagua ({{Lang-zh|c=大褂|l=great gown}}; a long cross-collar robe which reaches the ankles and has a 42&nbsp;cm wide sleeves), zhonggua (中褂; a cross-collar robe which reaches the mid-calf and has slightly narrower sleeves than the dagua), and xiaogua (小褂; a cross-collar robe which reaches the hip and has sleeves which could either be the same size or narrower than a zhongua; the xiaogua is more similar to a jacket than a robe).<ref name=":2" />
== Similar garments ==
* Sengyi (僧衣) - Long buddhist robes [[Abbot (Buddhism)|abbot]].
* Hai Qing (海青) - Buddhist ritual garment.
*[[Zhiduo (clothing)|Zhiduo]], also known as zhishen (直身) - a style similar to the daopao except that it was decorated with outside pendulums.<ref name=":12" />
*[[Dopo (clothing)]] - A Korean equivalent
== See also ==
*[[Han Chinese clothing|Hanfu]]
*[[List of Han Chinese clothing|List of Hanfu]]
*[[Paofu]]
==References==
<references/>
{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}
[[Category:Chinese traditional clothing]]
[[Category:Religious clothing| ]]