View source for Exmoor

{{Short description|National park in South West England}}
{{about|the moorland|the place in the United States|Exmoor, Alabama|the civil parish|Exmoor (civil parish)|Royal Navy ships named ''Exmoor''|HMS Exmoor{{!}}HMS ''Exmoor''}}
{{distinguish|Exmor|Exmore}}
{{Use British English|date=January 2013}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2018}}
{{Infobox protected area
| name            = Exmoor National Park
| iucn_category   = V
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| photo           = File:Malmsmead Hill, Exmoor - geograph.org.uk - 80944.jpg
| photo_caption   = Typical moorland scenery on Exmoor
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| map_image       = Exmoor National Park UK location map.svg
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| map_caption     =The national park boundaries
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| location        = [[United Kingdom]] ([[South West England]])
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| area_km2        = 692
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| established     = 1954
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| governing_body  = Exmoor National Park Authority
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| website         = http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/
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{{National parks in the UK|sidebar=yes}}
'''Exmoor''' is loosely defined as an area of hilly open [[moorland]] in west [[Somerset]] and north [[Devon]] in [[South West England]]. It is named after the [[River Exe]], the source of which is situated in the centre of the area, two miles north-west of [[Simonsbath]]. Exmoor is more precisely defined as the area of the former ancient royal hunting forest, also called Exmoor, which was officially surveyed 1815–1818 as {{convert|18810|acre}} in extent. The moor has given its name to a [[National parks of England and Wales|National Park]], which includes the [[Brendon Hills]], the [[East Lyn Valley]], the Vale of Porlock and {{convert|55|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} of the [[Bristol Channel]] coast. The total area of the Exmoor National Park is {{convert|692.8|km2|mi2|abbr=on}}, of which 71% is in Somerset and 29% in Devon.
The upland area is underlain by [[Sedimentary rock|sedimentary]] rocks dating from the [[Devonian]] and early [[Carboniferous]] periods with [[Triassic]] and [[Jurassic]] age rocks on lower slopes. Where these reach the coast, cliffs are formed which are cut with ravines and waterfalls. It was recognised as a [[heritage coast]] in 1991. The highest point on Exmoor is [[Dunkery Hill|Dunkery Beacon]]; at {{convert|519|m|ft|0}} it is also the highest point in Somerset. The terrain supports [[Heaths in the British National Vegetation Classification system|lowland heath communities]], [[ancient woodland]] and [[blanket bog|blanket mire]] which provide habitats for scarce flora and fauna. There have also been reports of the [[Beast of Exmoor]], a [[cryptozoology|cryptozoological]] [[cat]] roaming Exmoor. Several areas have been designated as [[A Nature Conservation Review|Nature Conservation Review]] and [[Geological Conservation Review]] sites.
There is evidence of human occupation from the [[Mesolithic]]. This developed for agriculture and extraction of mineral ores into the [[Bronze Age|Bronze]] and [[Iron Age]]s. The remains of [[Menhir|standing stones]], [[cairn]]s and bridges can still be identified. The royal forest was granted a charter in the 13th century, however foresters who managed the area were identified in the [[Domesday Book]]. In the [[Middle Ages]] sheep farming was common with a system of [[agistment]] licensing the grazing of livestock as the [[Inclosure Acts]] divided up the land. The area is now used for a range of recreational purposes.
==National character area==
Exmoor has been designated as a [[national character area]] (No. 145) by [[Natural England]], the public body responsible for England's natural environment. Neighbouring natural regions include [[Culm Measures#National character area|The Culm]] to the southwest, the [[Devon Redlands]] to the south and the [[Vale of Taunton and Quantock Fringes]] to the east.<ref>{{cite web|title=NCA Profile:145 Exmoor (NE342) |url=http://publications.naturalengland.org.uk/publication/2303045?category=587130 |publisher=Natural England |access-date=31 May 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304104413/http://publications.naturalengland.org.uk/publication/2303045?category=587130 |archive-date= 4 March 2016 }}</ref>
==Exmoor National Park==
Exmoor was designated a National Park in 1954, under the 1949 [[National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949|National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act]].<ref name = "authority"/> The Exmoor National Park is primarily an [[Highland|upland]] area with a dispersed population living mainly in small villages and hamlets.<ref>{{cite web |title=Exmoor Landscape Action Plan |url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/118473/ELAP-2010-2013.pdf |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=9 October 2015 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151003123026/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/118473/ELAP-2010-2013.pdf |archive-date=3 October 2015 |df=dmy-all }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |last1=Preece |first1=Emma Jane |title=Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment |url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0005/583232/Lansdcape-Character-Assessment-document.pdf |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=9 October 2015 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151003123038/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0005/583232/Lansdcape-Character-Assessment-document.pdf |archive-date=3 October 2015 |df=dmy-all }}</ref> The largest settlements are [[Porlock]], [[Dulverton]], [[Lynton]], and [[Lynmouth]], which together contain almost 40 per cent of the park's population. Lynton and Lynmouth are combined into one parish and are connected by the [[Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway]].
Exmoor was once a [[royal forest]] and hunting ground, covering {{convert|18810|acre}},<ref>{{cite book|last1=Rawle |first1=Edwin John |title=Annals of the Ancient Royal Forest of Exmoor |date=1893 |publisher=Truslove and Hanson |page=102 |url=https://archive.org/stream/annalsancientro00rawlgoog#page/n123/mode/2up |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160320161210/https://archive.org/stream/annalsancientro00rawlgoog |archive-date=20 March 2016 }}</ref> which was sold off in 1818.<ref>{{cite web|title=MEM22088 - Exmoor Royal Forest |url=http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/record.aspx?UID=MEM22088-Exmoor-Royal-Forest |website=Exmoor Historic Environment Record |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=9 October 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304094119/http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/record.aspx?UID=MEM22088-Exmoor-Royal-Forest |archive-date= 4 March 2016 }}</ref> Several areas within the Exmoor National Park have been declared [[Site of Special Scientific Interest|Sites of Special Scientific Interest]] due to their flora and fauna.<ref name=glenthornesssi/><ref name=northexmoorsssi/><ref name=southexmoorsssi/> This title earns the site some legal protection from development, damage and neglect. In 1993 an [[environmentally sensitive area]] was established within Exmoor.<ref>{{cite web |title=Exmoor Environmentally Sensitive Area landscape Assessment |url=http://countryscape.org/node/375 |publisher=Countyscape |access-date=9 October 2015 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160305145954/http://countryscape.org/node/375 |archive-date=5 March 2016 |df=dmy-all }}</ref> It is known as a perfect place for [[Amateur astronomy|stargazing]]. In 2011, it was designated Europe's first International Dark Sky Reserve by the [[International Dark-Sky Association]].<ref>{{Cite news |last=Drew |first=Keith |date=2020-12-21 |title=Winter solstice: Why Exmoor is the best place in the UK for stargazing |language=en-GB |work=The Telegraph |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/activity-and-adventure/winter-solstice-exmoor-best-place-uk-stargazing/ |access-date=2022-04-16 |issn=0307-1235}}</ref>
==Geology==
{{main|Geology of Exmoor National Park}}
Exmoor is an upland area formed almost exclusively from [[Sedimentary rock|sedimentary]] rocks dating from the [[Devonian]] and early [[Carboniferous]] periods. The name of the [[period (geology)|geological period]] and [[system (stratigraphy)|system]], 'Devonian', comes from Devon, as rocks of that age were first studied and described here. With the exception of a suite of [[Triassic]] and [[Jurassic]] age rocks forming the lower ground between Porlock and Timberscombe and from Minehead to [[Nettlecombe, Somerset|Yarde]] (within Exmoor National Park but peripheral to the moor itself),<ref>British Geological Survey 1997 ''Minehead'' England and Wales sheet 278 Solid & Drift Geology. 1:50,000 scale geological map (Keyworth, Nottingham: British Geological Survey)</ref><ref>British Geological Survey 1975 ''Dulverton'' England and Wales sheet 294 Solid & Drift Geology. 1:50,000 scale geological map (Keyworth, Nottingham: British Geological Survey)</ref> all of the solid rocks of Exmoor are assigned to the [[Exmoor Group]], which comprises a mix of [[gritstone]]s, [[sandstone]]s, [[slate]]s, [[shale]]s, [[limestone]], [[siltstone]]s and [[mudstone]]s. [[Quartz]] and [[iron]] mineralisation can be detected in outcrops and [[subsoil]].<ref>{{cite web|last=Prudden |first=Hugh |title=Somerset Geology |work=Good Rock Guide |url=http://people.bath.ac.uk/exxbgs/Somerset_Good_Rock_Guide.pdf |access-date=9 October 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304105348/http://people.bath.ac.uk/exxbgs/Somerset_Good_Rock_Guide.pdf |archive-date= 4 March 2016 }}</ref> The [[Glenthorne]] area demonstrates the Trentishoe Member (formerly 'Formation') of the Hangman Sandstone Formation (formerly 'Group'). The Hangman Sandstone represents the Middle Devonian sequence of North Devon and Somerset.<ref name=glenthornesssi>{{cite web|url=http://www.sssi.naturalengland.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1002137.pdf |title=Glenthorne |publisher=Natural England |access-date=30 November 2011 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304041733/http://www.sssi.naturalengland.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1002137.pdf |archive-date=4 March 2016 }}</ref> These unusual freshwater deposits in the Hangman Grits were mainly formed in desert conditions.<ref name=exmoorgeology>{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=116440 |title=Geology |access-date=30 November 2011 |publisher=Exmoor National Park |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120225131355/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=116440 |archive-date=25 February 2012 }}</ref> As this area of Britain was not subject to [[Glacial period|glaciation]], the plateau remains as a remarkably old landform.<ref name=exmoorgeology/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.naturalareas.naturalengland.org.uk/Science/natural/profiles/naProfile87.pdf |title=Exmoor and the Quantocks |access-date=30 November 2011 |work=Natural England |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141209110311/http://www.naturalareas.naturalengland.org.uk/Science/natural/profiles/naProfile87.pdf |archive-date=9 December 2014 }}</ref> The bedrock and more recent superficial deposits are covered in part by moorland which is supported by wet, acid soil.<ref name="eelandscape">{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=116679 |title=Wildlife on Exmoor |date=25 June 2014 |access-date=31 May 2015 |publisher=Exmoor National Park |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150924005133/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=116679 |archive-date=24 September 2015 }}</ref>
==Geography==
===Coastline===
[[Image:Exmoorcliffs.jpg|thumb|alt=Ricky peaks and cliffs topped by greenery, with a small section of blue see visible to the left.|left|The Exmoor coastline near the [[Valley of Rocks]]]]
Exmoor has {{convert|55|km|mi|0|abbr=off}} of coastline. The highest sea cliff on mainland Britain (if a cliff is defined as having a slope greater than 60 degrees) is [[Hangman cliffs|Great Hangman]] near [[Combe Martin]] at {{convert|318|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} high, with a cliff face of {{convert|250|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}.<ref name="moorfacts">{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/exmoor-facts |title=Moor Facts |access-date=9 October 2015 |work=Exmoor National Park |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150510065447/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/exmoor-facts |archive-date=10 May 2015 }}</ref> Its sister cliff is the {{convert|200|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} Little Hangman, which marks the edge of Exmoor. The coastal hills reach a maximum height of {{convert|414|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} at Culbone Hill.<ref>{{cite web|title=Did you know? |date=15 June 2015 |url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/exmoor-facts-and-figures |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=10 October 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151018201544/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/exmoor-facts-and-figures |archive-date=18 October 2015 }}</ref>
Exmoor's woodlands sometimes reach the shoreline,<ref name="moorfacts"/> especially between Porlock and [[Foreland Point]], where they form the single longest stretch of coastal woodland in [[England and Wales]].<ref name=exmoorscoast>{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/environment/exmoors-coast |title=Exmoor Coast |publisher=Exmoor Park |access-date=31 December 2011 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120130051050/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/environment/exmoors-coast |archive-date=30 January 2012 }}</ref> The [[Exmoor Coastal Heaths]] have been recognised as a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to the diversity of plant species present.<ref>{{cite web|title=Exmoor Coastal Heaths |work=English Nature |url=http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1004152.pdf |access-date=12 August 2006 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061013121921/http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1004152.pdf |archive-date=13 October 2006 }}</ref>
The scenery of rocky headlands, ravines, waterfalls and towering cliffs gained the Exmoor coast recognition as a [[heritage coast]] in 1991.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/insideout/west/series6/exmoor.shtml |title=Flying High |access-date=3 December 2007 |work=BBC |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060628215432/http://www.bbc.co.uk/insideout/west/series6/exmoor.shtml |archive-date=28 June 2006 }}</ref> With its huge waterfalls and caves, this dramatic coastline has become an adventure playground for both climbers and explorers. The cliffs provide one of the longest and most isolated seacliff traverses in the UK.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://members.madasafish.com/~exmoorwalker/page100.html |title=The Exmoor Coast Traverse |access-date=28 November 2007 |work=Exmoor Walker |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070927040349/http://members.madasafish.com/~exmoorwalker/page100.html |archive-date=27 September 2007 }}</ref> The [[South West Coast Path]], at {{convert|1014|km|mi|0}} the longest [[National Trails|National Trail]] in England and Wales, starts at [[Minehead]] and runs along all of Exmoor's coast.<ref name="Xs4all.nl">{{cite web|url=http://www.xs4all.nl/~keizee/southwest.html |title=Long distance footpaths in Britain: Southwest England |publisher=Xs4all.nl |access-date=1 August 2009| archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20080503091008/http://www.xs4all.nl/~keizee/southwest.html| archive-date = 3 May 2008}}</ref><ref name="Britainexpress.com">{{cite web|url=http://www.britainexpress.com/countryside/national-trails/swcp.htm |title=South West Coast Path National Trail |publisher=Britainexpress.com |access-date=1 August 2009 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090930093029/http://www.britainexpress.com/countryside/national-trails/swcp.htm |archive-date=30 September 2009 }}</ref> There are small harbours at Lynmouth, [[Porlock Weir]] and Combe Martin. Once crucial to coastal trade, the harbours are now primarily used for pleasure; individually owned sailing boats and non-commercial fishing boats are often found in the harbours.<ref name=exmoorscoast/> The [[Valley of Rocks]] beyond Lynton is a deep dry valley that runs parallel to the nearby sea and is capped on the seaward side by large rocks,<ref>{{cite web
|url=http://www.devon.gov.uk/index/environmentplanning/natural_environment/geology/northerndevon.htm
|title=Geology to see in Northern Devon and Exmoor
|publisher=Devon County Council
|access-date=9 October 2015
|url-status=dead
|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150911053029/http://www.devon.gov.uk/index/environmentplanning/natural_environment/geology/northerndevon.htm
|archive-date=11 September 2015
}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book| last=Durrance | first=E. M. |author2=Laming, D. J. | title=The Geology of Devon | publisher=University of Exeter | year=1982 | pages=259, 289 | isbn=0-85989-247-6}}</ref> and [[Sexton's Burrows]] forms a natural breakwater to the harbour of [[Watermouth]] Bay on the coast.<ref>{{cite web|title=Watermouth Bay |url=http://www.northdevon.com/beaches/watermouth-bay |publisher=North Devon Marketing Bureau |access-date=9 October 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150930073603/http://www.northdevon.com/beaches/watermouth-bay |archive-date=30 September 2015 }}</ref>
===Rivers===
[[Image:LowerEastLynRiver.jpg|thumb|alt=A white stream flowing between rock banks through woodland|The [[East Lyn River]]]]
The high ground forms the [[Drainage basin|catchment area]] for numerous rivers and streams. There are about {{convert|483|km|mi|abbr=on}} of named rivers on Exmoor.<ref name=filex07>{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=122273 |title=Water on Exmoor&nbsp;– Filex 7 |access-date=30 November 2011 |work=Exmoor National Park |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120405073936/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=122273 |archive-date= 5 April 2012 }}</ref> The [[River Exe]], after which Exmoor is named,<ref>{{cite web |title=Exmoor's Rivers |url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/environment/rivers-and-the-coast |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=31 May 2015 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150525024757/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/environment/rivers-and-the-coast |archive-date=25 May 2015 }}</ref> [[River source|rises]] at Exe Head near the village of [[Simonsbath]], close to the [[Bristol Channel]] coast, but flows more or less directly due south, so that most of its length lies in [[Devon]]. It reaches the sea at a substantial [[ria]] ([[estuary]]) on the south ([[English Channel]]) coast of Devon.<ref>{{cite web |title=Exe Estuary SPA: site information (draft) |url=https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/marine-conservation-advice-for-special-protection-area-exe-estuary-uk9010081/exe-estuary-spa-site-information |publisher=Natural England |access-date=10 October 2015 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160307212207/https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/marine-conservation-advice-for-special-protection-area-exe-estuary-uk9010081/exe-estuary-spa-site-information |archive-date=7 March 2016 }}</ref> It has several tributaries which arise on Exmoor. The [[River Barle]] runs from northern Exmoor to join the River Exe at [[Exebridge]], Devon. The river and the [[Barle Valley]] are both designated as biological Sites of Special Scientific Interest.<ref>{{cite web|title=Barle Valley |work=English Nature |url=http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1000449.pdf |access-date=12 August 2006 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061013121853/http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1000449.pdf |archive-date=13 October 2006 }}</ref> Another tributary, the [[River Haddeo]], flows from the [[Wimbleball Lake]].<ref>{{cite web|title=River Haddeo |url=http://somersetrivers.org/index.php?module=Content&func=view&pid=14 |publisher=Somerset Rivers |access-date=10 October 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151013004802/http://www.somersetrivers.org/index.php?module=Content&func=view&pid=14 |archive-date=13 October 2015 }}</ref>
Most other rivers arising on Exmoor flow north to the Bristol Channel. These include the [[River Heddon]], which runs along the western edges of Exmoor, reaching the North Devon coast at [[Heddon's Mouth]],<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/article-1356403558255/ |title=Coastal walk&nbsp;– Heddon Valley & Woody Bay, Exmoor, North Devon Coast |access-date=31 May 2015 |format=PDF |work=National Trust |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140826210326/http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/article-1356403558255/ |archive-date=26 August 2014 }}</ref> and the [[East Lyn River|East]] and [[West Lyn River|West Lyn]] rivers, which meet at [[Watersmeet House|Watersmeet]] immediately east of Lynmouth. [[Hoar Oak Water]] is a moorland tributary of the East Lyn River which also has its confluence there.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-vh/w-visits/w-findaplace/w-watersmeethouse/w-watersmeet-history_archaeology.htm |title=Watersmeet |access-date=1 January 2008 |work=National Trust |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071120005849/http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-vh/w-visits/w-findaplace/w-watersmeethouse/w-watersmeet-history_archaeology.htm <!--Added by H3llBot--> |archive-date=20 November 2007}}</ref> The [[River Horner]], which is also known as Horner Water, rises near [[Luccombe, Somerset|Luccombe]] and flows into [[Porlock Bay]] near [[Hurlstone Point]].<ref>{{cite web|title=River Horner |url=http://somersetrivers.org/index.php?module=Content&func=view&pid=16 |publisher=Somerset Rivers |access-date=8 September 2011 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110728043117/http://www.somersetrivers.org/index.php?module=Content&func=view&pid=16 |archive-date=28 July 2011 }}</ref> The [[River Mole, Devon|River Mole]] arises on the south-western flanks of Exmoor and is the major tributary of the [[River Taw]], which itself flows northward from [[Dartmoor]]. [[Badgworthy Water]] is one of the small rivers running north to the coast and is associated with the [[Lorna Doone]] legends.<ref>{{cite web|title=A walk in Lorna Doone country |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/devon/outdoors/walks/lorna_doone.shtml |publisher=BBC |access-date=23 September 2012 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120615020307/http://www.bbc.co.uk/devon/outdoors/walks/lorna_doone.shtml |archive-date=15 June 2012 }}</ref>
==Climate==
[[Image:SnowyExmoor.jpg|thumb|alt=A thin covering of white snow with rocks poking through it, covering sloping hillsides.|Horner Woods, Exmoor, in winter]]
Along with the rest of [[South West England]], Exmoor has a [[temperate climate]] which is generally wetter and milder than the rest of England. The mean annual temperature at Simonsbath is {{convert|8.3|°C|°F|abbr=on}} with a [[season]]al and [[Diurnal motion|diurnal]] variation, but due to the modifying effect of the sea the range is less than in most other parts of the UK. January is the coldest month, with mean minimum temperatures between {{convert|1|and|2|C|F|abbr=on}}. July and August are the warmest months in the region, with mean daily maxima around {{convert|21|°C|°F|abbr=on}}. In general, December is the month with the least sunshine and June the month with the most sun. The south-west of England has a favoured location with regard to the [[Azores]] high pressure when it extends its influence north-eastwards towards the UK, particularly in summer.<ref name="metoffice"/>
[[Cumulus cloud|Cloud]] often forms inland, especially near hills, and reduce the amount of sunshine that reaches the park. The average annual sunshine is about 1,600 hours. [[Precipitation|Rainfall]] tends to be associated with [[Atlantic Ocean|Atlantic]] [[Low-pressure area|depressions]] or with convection. In summer, convection, caused by the sun heating the land surface more than the sea, sometimes forms rain [[cloud]]s and at that time of year a large proportion of the rainfall comes from showers and [[thunderstorm]]s. Annual precipitation varies from {{convert|800|mm|in|abbr=on}} in the east of the park to over {{convert|2000|mm|in|abbr=on}} at The Chains.<ref name=filex07/> However, in the 24&nbsp;hours of 16 August 1952, more than {{convert|225|mm|in|abbr=on}} of rain fell at The Chains. This rainfall, which followed an exceptionally wet summer, led to disastrous flooding in Lynmouth with 34 dead and extensive damage to the small town.<ref name=filex07/>
[[Snow]]fall is very variable from year to year and ranges from 23 days on the high moors to about 6 on coastal areas. November to March have the highest mean wind speeds, with June to August having the lightest winds. The wind comes mostly from the south-west.<ref name="metoffice">{{cite web | title=About south-west England | publisher=Met Office |url=http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/location/southwestengland/index.html | access-date=21 May 2006| archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20060225164404/http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/location/southwestengland/index.html| archive-date = 25 February 2006}}</ref>
There are two Met Office Weather stations recording climate data within Exmoor: Liscombe and Nettlecombe.<ref>{{cite web|publisher=[[UKMO]] |url=http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/climate-network/#?tab=climateNetwork |title=Weather Stations |access-date=31 May 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150324093747/http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/climate-network/ |archive-date=24 March 2015 }}</ref>
{{Weather box|location = Nettlecombe 96&nbsp;m asl, 1971–2000
|metric first = Yes
|single line = Yes
|Jan high C = 7.9
|Feb high C = 8.0
|Mar high C = 10.2
|Apr high C = 12.2
|May high C = 15.6
|Jun high C = 18.3
|Jul high C = 20.7
|Aug high C = 20.5
|Sep high C = 17.8
|Oct high C = 14.2
|Nov high C = 10.8
|Dec high C = 8.8
|year high C = 13.8
|Jan low C = 1.9
|Feb low C = 1.8
|Mar low C = 3.0
|Apr low C = 3.6
|May low C = 6.2
|Jun low C = 8.8
|Jul low C = 10.9
|Aug low C = 10.8
|Sep low C = 9.0
|Oct low C = 6.7
|Nov low C = 4.1
|Dec low C = 2.9
|year low C = 5.8
|Jan precipitation mm = 123.6
|Feb precipitation mm = 87.6
|Mar precipitation mm = 80.6
|Apr precipitation mm = 66.3
|May precipitation mm = 62.6
|Jun precipitation mm = 58.7
|Jul precipitation mm = 43.4
|Aug precipitation mm = 66.5
|Sep precipitation mm = 85.4
|Oct precipitation mm = 108.6
|Nov precipitation mm = 106.6
|Dec precipitation mm = 128.7
|year precipitation mm = 1018.6
|source 1 = [[MetOffice]]<ref>{{cite web
| url =http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/averages/19712000/sites/nettlecombe.html | title = Nettlecombe Climate | access-date =9 November 2011 | publisher = [[UKMO]]|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140302215910/http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/averages/19712000/sites/nettlecombe.html|archive-date=2 March 2014}}</ref>
|date=November 2011}}
==History==
[[Image:Tarr Steps 01.jpg|thumb|left|Tarr steps [[clapper bridge]].]]
There is evidence of occupation of the area by people from [[Mesolithic]] times onward.<ref>{{cite web |title=Mesolithic (Middle Stone Age) |url=http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/mesolithic |website=Exmoor Historic Environment Record |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=9 October 2015 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304094603/http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/mesolithic |archive-date=4 March 2016 }}</ref> In the [[Neolithic]] period, people started to manage animals and grow crops on farms cleared from the woodland, rather than act purely as hunters and as gatherers.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Fyfe |first1=R.M. |last2=Brown |first2=A. G. |last3=Rippon |first3=S. J. |year=2003 |title=Mid- to late-Holocene vegetation history of Greater Exmoor, UK: estimating the spatial extent of human-induced vegetation change |journal=Vegetation History and Archaeobotany |volume=12 |issue=4 |pages=215–232 |doi=10.1007/s00334-003-0018-3 |hdl=10036/29653 |s2cid=128994811 |hdl-access=free }}{{open access}}</ref> It is also likely that extraction and smelting of mineral ores to make metal tools, weapons, containers and ornaments started in the late Neolithic, and continued into the [[Bronze Age|Bronze]] and [[Iron Age]]s.<ref name="natparkhist"/> An earthen ring at [[Parracombe]] is believed to be a Neolithic [[henge]] dating from 5000–4000&nbsp;[[Anno Domini|BC]], and [[Cow Castle]], which is where White Water meets the River Barle, is an Iron Age fort at the top of a conical hill.<ref>{{PastScape|mname=Cow Castle|mnumber=34989|access-date=9 October 2015}}</ref>
[[Tarr Steps]] are a [[Prehistory|prehistoric]] ({{circa}} 1000&nbsp;BC) [[clapper bridge]] across the River Barle, about {{convert|4|km|mi|frac=2|abbr=on}} south-east of [[Withypool]] and {{convert|6|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} north-west of Dulverton. The stone slabs weigh up to 5 tonnes apiece, and the bridge has been designated by [[English Heritage]] as a grade I [[listed building]],<ref>{{NHLE |num=1247822 |desc=Tarr Steps |access-date=9 May 2007}}</ref> to recognise its special architectural, historical or cultural significance. There is little evidence of Roman occupation apart from two fortlets on the coast.<ref name="natparkhist">{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/environment/history/the-hiistory-of-exmoor |title=The history of Exmoor |access-date=31 December 2011 |publisher=Exmoor National Park |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130729085614/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/environment/history/the-hiistory-of-exmoor |archive-date=29 July 2013 }}</ref> [[Lanacombe]] is the site of several [[Menhir|standing stones]] and [[cairn]]s which have been scheduled as [[ancient monument]]s.<ref>{{NHLE|desc=Lanacombe 1: a stone setting and two cairns on the east side of Lanacombe |num=1014273 |access-date=29 December 2014 }}</ref><ref>{{NHLE|desc=Lanacombe 2: a stone setting and cairn on the east side of Lanacombe |num=1014274 |access-date=29 December 2014 }}</ref><ref>{{NHLE|desc=Lanacombe 3: a stone setting and cairn on the east side of Lanacombe |num=1014275 |access-date=29 December 2014 }}</ref><ref>{{NHLE|desc=Lanacombe 4: a stone setting on the ENE side of Lanacombe |num=1014276 |access-date=29 December 2014 }}</ref><ref>{{NHLE|desc=Lanacombe 5: a stone alignment on the south east side of Lanacombe |num=1014277 |access-date=29 December 2014 }}</ref> The stone settings are between {{convert|30|cm|in|abbr=on}} and {{convert|65|cm|in|abbr=on}} high.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Tilley|first1=Christopher|title=Interpreting Landscapes: Geologies, Topographies, Identities; Explorations in Landscape Phenomenology 3|date=2010|publisher=Left Coast Press|isbn=9781598743746|pages=322–323|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=uk-1r0dtefgC&q=Lanacombe+Exmoor&pg=PA323}}</ref> A series of Bronze Age stone cairns are closely associated with the standing stones.<ref>{{cite web|title=MSO7116 - Burial Cairn, North of Lanacombe I |url=http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/handlers/HBSMRSingleRecord.ashx?MSO7116 |website=Exmoor National Park Historic Environment Record |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=7 March 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150402102820/http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/handlers/HBSMRSingleRecord.ashx?MSO7116 |archive-date= 2 April 2015 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=MSO6967 - Cairn Associated with Lanacombe III Stone Setting |url=http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/handlers/HBSMRSingleRecord.ashx?MSO6967 |website=Exmoor National Park Historic Environment Record |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=7 March 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160303220647/http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/handlers/HBSMRSingleRecord.ashx?MSO6967 |archive-date= 3 March 2016 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=MSO6969 - Cairn Associated with Lanacombe I Stone Setting |url=http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/handlers/HBSMRSingleRecord.ashx?MSO6969 |website=Exmoor National Park Historic Environment Record |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=7 March 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150402143133/http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/handlers/HBSMRSingleRecord.ashx?MSO6969 |archive-date= 2 April 2015 }}</ref>
Holwell Castle, at Parracombe, was a [[Norman architecture|Norman]] [[motte-and-bailey castle]] built to guard the junction of the east–west and north–south trade routes, enabling movement of people and goods and the growth of the population.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Green |first1=Terry |title=The Parracombe Survey |url=http://www.ndas.org.uk/page11.html |publisher=North Devon Archaeological Society |access-date=9 October 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304112617/http://www.ndas.org.uk/page11.html |archive-date= 4 March 2016 }}</ref> Alternative explanations for its construction suggest it may have been constructed to obtain taxes at the River Heddon bridging place, or to protect and supervise [[silver]] mining in the area around Combe Martin.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.ndas.org.uk/holwellcastel.htm |title=Holwell Castle |access-date=3 January 2008 |work=North Devon Archaeological Society |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20080106130035/http://www.ndas.org.uk/holwellcastel.htm <!-- Bot retrieved archive --> |archive-date = 6 January 2008}}</ref> It was {{convert|40|m|ft|0}} in diameter and {{convert|6.2|m|ft|abbr=on}} high above the bottom of a rock cut ditch which is {{convert|2.7|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} deep. It was built, in the late 11th or early 12th century.<ref>{{cite web|title=Holwell Castle Motte and Bailey, Parracombe |url=http://www.heritagegateway.org.uk/Gateway/Results_Single.aspx?uid=MDE1056&resourceID=1022 |website=Heritage Gateway |publisher=Historic England |access-date=10 October 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160214062742/http://www.heritagegateway.org.uk/Gateway/Results_Single.aspx?uid=MDE1056&resourceID=1022 |archive-date=14 February 2016 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web|last1=Moore |first1=John |title=Normans |url=http://www.johnhmoore.co.uk/hele/normans.htm |publisher=John Moore |access-date=10 October 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304214408/http://www.johnhmoore.co.uk/hele/normans.htm |archive-date= 4 March 2016 }}</ref> The earthworks of the castle are still clearly visible from a nearby footpath, but there is no public access to them.<ref>{{cite web |title=Parracombe Conservation Area: Appraisal Document |url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/573324/ExmoorNat_Parracombe-Low-res.pdf |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=10 October 2015 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150914162338/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/573324/ExmoorNat_Parracombe-Low-res.pdf |archive-date=14 September 2015 |df=dmy-all }}</ref>
===Establishment of royal forest===
[[File:Royal.Forests.1327.1336.selected.jpg|frameless|right|300px]]
According to the late 13th-century [[Hundred Rolls]], King [[Henry II of England]] (d. 1189) gave [[William of Wrotham]] the office of steward of Exmoor.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Golding|first1=Brian |title=Wrotham, William of (d. 1217/18|url=http://www.oxforddnb.com/view/article/30087|publisher=Oxford Dictionary of National Biography|access-date=31 May 2015|url-access=subscription }}</ref> The terms steward, warden and forester appear to be synonymous for the king's chief officer of the royal forest.
===Wardens===
The first recorded wardens were Dodo, Almer & Godric who were named in the [[Domesday Book]] (1086) as "foresters of Widepolla", [[Withypool]] having been the ancient capital of the forest. The family of Denys were associated with [[Ilchester]]<ref>{{cite book|last1=Greswell|first1=William Henry Parr|title=Forests and Deer arks of the County of Somerset|date=1905|publisher=Barnicott & Pearce|page=71}}</ref> and [[North Petherton|"Petherton"]]. William of Wrotham, who died in 1217, was steward of the forests of Exmoor and North Petherton, Somerset. Walter and Robert were named as foresters of Exmoor when they witnessed an early 13th-century grant to [[Forde Abbey]].<ref>{{cite book|last1=Hobbs|first1=Steven|title=The cartulary of Forde Abbey|date=1998|publisher=Somerset Record Society|isbn=9780901732330}}</ref> In 1276 the jurors of [[Brushford, Somerset|Brushford]] manor made a complaint about John de Camera in the Court of Exchequer in which he was described as forester of Exmoor.<ref name=":0">For an explanation of the Duke of York's tenure, inherited from the Mortimers, see [http://www.ebooksread.com/authors-eng/archibald-hamilton/the-red-deer-of-exmoor-with-notes-on-those-who-hunted-them-from-robert-dauber-ima/page-12-the-red-deer-of-exmoor-with-notes-on-those-who-hunted-them-from-robert-dauber-ima.shtml Hamilton, Archibald. The Red Deer of Exmoor, 1906, Chapter 12, The Forest of Exmoor under the Plantagenets and Tudors] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140309172855/http://www.ebooksread.com/authors-eng/archibald-hamilton/the-red-deer-of-exmoor-with-notes-on-those-who-hunted-them-from-robert-dauber-ima/page-12-the-red-deer-of-exmoor-with-notes-on-those-who-hunted-them-from-robert-dauber-ima.shtml |date= 9 March 2014 }}, pp.190–210</ref>
William Lucar of "Wythecomb", the brother of [[Elizabeth Lucar]], was forester ''temp.'' under Henry VI, between 1422 and 1461. [[William de Botreaux, 3rd Baron Botreaux]] was appointed in 1435 warden of the forests of Exmoor and [[Castle Neroche|Neroche]] for life by [[Richard of York, 3rd Duke of York|Richard Duke of York]].<ref name=":0"/> The Botreaux family had long held the manor of [[Molland]] at the southern edge of Exmoor, but were probably resident mainly at [[North Cadbury]] in Somerset. On 10 May 1461 [[William Bourchier, 9th Baron FitzWarin]], [[Feudal barony of Bampton|feudal baron of Bampton]] was appointed by King Edward IV as Master Forester of the Forests of Exmoor and Neroche for life.<ref>Cokayne, ''[[The Complete Peerage]]'', Vol.V, p.508, quoting: "[[Letters patent|Patent Rolls]] 1 Edward IV, part 1, membrane 13</ref> Sir John Poyntz of [[Manor of Iron Acton|Iron Acton]], Gloucestershire, was warden or chief forester of Exmoor in 1568 when he brought an action in the Court of Exchequer against Henry Rolle (of [[Heanton Satchville, Petrockstowe]]), the powerful lord of the manors of Exton, Hawkridge and Withypool.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Loosemore |first1=W. R. |title=Chapter 5 Loosemore of Bishops Nympton and Barnsataple |url=http://www.loosemore.co.uk/Chapter5/CHAPTER5text.htm |website=Loosemore of Devon |publisher=W. R. Loosemore |access-date=10 October 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150905144246/http://www.loosemore.co.uk/Chapter5/CHAPTER5text.htm |archive-date= 5 September 2015 }}</ref>
In 1608 Sir Hugh Pollard was named as chief forester in a suit brought before the Court of Exchequer by his deputy William Pincombe. [[James Butler, 1st Duke of Ormonde]], was named as Keeper of Exmoor Forest in 1660 and 1661. [[James Boevey]] was a forester in the 17th century. Sir Richard Acland (or possibly Sir Thomas Dyke Acland) was the last forester up to 1818. One of the roles of the Warden was Master of Staghounds<ref>Acland, Anne. A Devon Family: The Story of the Aclands. London and Chichester: Phillimore, 1981, p.18</ref> and this role continued to be exercised by the Master of the [[Devon and Somerset Staghounds]], a position extant today. By 1820 the royal forest had been divided up. A quarter of the forest, {{convert|10262|acre}}, was sold to [[John Knight (Exmoor pioneer)|John Knight]] (1765–1850) in 1818.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/record.aspx?UID=MEM22088-Exmoor-Royal-Forest |title=MEM22088 - Exmoor Royal Forest |publisher=Exmoor Nation Park |work=Exmoor Historic Environment Record |access-date=21 August 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304094119/http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/record.aspx?UID=MEM22088-Exmoor-Royal-Forest |archive-date= 4 March 2016 }}</ref> This section comprises the present Exmoor Parish, whose parish church is situated in Simonsbath.<ref>Information leaflet in Simonsbath Church</ref>
==Wool trade==
The parish of Exmoor Forest was part of the [[Hundred of Williton and Freemanners]].<ref>{{cite web|title=Somerset Hundreds |url=http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/eng/SOM/Miscellaneous/ |publisher=GENUKI |access-date=23 October 2011 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120119134349/http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/eng/SOM/Miscellaneous/ |archive-date=19 January 2012 }}</ref> [[Image:dunster.jpg|thumb|alt=A small single story building with a pyramid shaped roof, to the side of a road lined with buildings. Some private small cars visible. Trees in the distance with the skyline of Dunster Castle.<!-- alt=Street scene with houses and shops on the left and an octagonal structure has a central stone pier which supports a heavy timber framework which carries a slate roof with central wooden lantern surmounted by a weathervane. In the distance is a castle. -->|right|Dunster Yarn Market (a covered market for the sale of local cloth, built in 1609) and Dunster Castle, Exmoor]] During the [[Middle Ages]], sheep farming for the wool trade came to dominate the economy. The wool was spun into thread on isolated farms and collected by merchants to be woven, fulled, dyed and finished in thriving towns such as [[Dunster]]. The land started to be enclosed and from the 17th century onwards larger estates developed, leading to establishment of areas of large regular shaped fields. During the 16th and 17th centuries the commons were overstocked with [[Agistment|agisted]] livestock, from farmers outside the immediate area who were charged for the privilege. This led to disputes about the number of animals allowed and the [[Inclosure Acts|enclosure]] of land.<ref name="havinden">{{cite book|last=Havinden|first=Michael|title=The Somerset Landscape|year=1982|publisher=Hodder and Stoughton|location=London|series=The making of the English landscape|pages=126–129|isbn=0-340-20116-9}}</ref> In the mid-17th century James Boevey was the warden. The house that he built at [[Simonsbath]] was the only one in the forest for 150 years.<ref>{{NHLE |num=1058031 |desc=Simonsbath House Hotel |access-date=27 November 2007}}</ref> When the royal forest was sold off in 1818, John Knight bought the Simonsbath House and the accompanying farm for £50,000. He set about converting the royal forest into agricultural land.<ref name="havinden"/> He and his family also built most of the large farms in the central section of the moor as well as {{convert|35.4|km|mi|abbr=on}} of metalled access roads to Simonsbath and a {{convert|46.7|km|mi|abbr=on}} wall around his estate, much of which still survives.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.whatsonexmoor.co.uk/exmoor_simonsbath.htm |title=Simonsbath |access-date=30 November 2011 |work=Whatsonexmoor |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111216035108/http://www.whatsonexmoor.co.uk/exmoor_simonsbath.htm |archive-date=16 December 2011 }}</ref>
In the mid-19th century a mine was developed alongside the River Barle. The mine was originally called Wheal Maria, then changed to Wheal Eliza. It was a [[copper]] mine from 1845 to 1854 and then an iron mine until 1857, although the first mining activity on the site may be from 1552.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.somersetheritage.org.uk/record/33007 |title=Wheal Eliza mine, NE of Simonsbath, Exmoor |access-date=27 November 2007 |work=Somerset Historic Environment Record |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161003105620/http://www.somersetheritage.org.uk/record/33007 |archive-date= 3 October 2016 }}</ref> At Simonsbath, a restored [[Victorian era|Victorian]] water-powered sawmill, which was damaged in the floods of 1992, has now been purchased by the National Park and returned to working order; it is now used to make the footpath signs, gates, stiles and bridges for various sites in the park.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nationalparks.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0018/351270/a_landscape_legacy.pdf |access-date=31 May 2015 |page=14 |title=A Landscape Legacy: National Parks and the historic environment |publisher=English Heritage |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150905122727/http://www.nationalparks.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0018/351270/a_landscape_legacy.pdf |archive-date=5 September 2015 }}</ref>
==Ecology==
[[File:Caddow Combe - geograph.org.uk - 73885.jpg|thumb|200px|Caddow Combe, near Foreland Point, representative of much of Exmoor's unimproved landscape]]
In addition to the Exmoor Coastal Heaths Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), two other areas are specifically designated. [[North Exmoor SSSI|North Exmoor]] covers {{convert|12005.3|ha|acre}}<ref name=northexmoorsssi>{{cite web|title=North Exmoor |work=English Nature |url=http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1006541.pdf |access-date=19 August 2006 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061013121549/http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1006541.pdf |archive-date=13 October 2006 }}</ref> and includes the [[Dunkery Hill|Dunkery Beacon]] and the [[Holnicote Estate|Holnicote]] and Horner Water [[A Nature Conservation Review|Nature Conservation Review]] sites, and the [[Chains (geological site)|Chains]] [[Geological Conservation Review]] site. The Chains site is nationally important for its south-western [[Heaths in the British National Vegetation Classification system|lowland heath communities]] and for transitions from [[Ancient woodland]] through upland heath to [[blanket bog|blanket mire]].<ref name="northSSSI"/> The site is also of importance for its breeding bird communities, its large population of the nationally rare [[heath fritillary]] (''Mellicta athalia''),<ref name="moorfacts"/> an exceptional woodland [[lichen]] [[flora]] and its [[Palynology|palynological]] interest of deep peat on the Chains.<ref name="northSSSI">{{cite web|title=North Exmoor |work=English Nature |url=http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1006541.pdf |access-date=19 August 2006 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061013121549/http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1006541.pdf |archive-date=13 October 2006 }}</ref>
The [[South Exmoor SSSI]] is smaller, covering {{convert|3132.7|ha|acre}}<ref name=southexmoorsssi>{{cite web|title=South Exmoor |work=English Nature |url=http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1002269.pdf |access-date=20 August 2006 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061013121315/http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1002269.pdf |archive-date=13 October 2006 }}</ref> and including the River Barle and its tributaries with submerged plants such as [[Myriophyllum alterniflorum|alternate water-milfoil]] (''Myriophyllum alterniflorum''). There are small areas of semi-natural woodland within the site, including some which are ancient. The most abundant tree species is [[Quercus petraea|sessile oak]] (''Quercus petraea''), the [[shrub layer]] is very sparse and the ground flora includes [[bracken]], [[bilberry]] and a variety of mosses. The heaths have strong breeding populations of birds, including [[whinchat]] (''Saxicola rubetra'') and [[European stonechat]] (''Saxicola rubicola''). [[Northern wheatear|Wheatear]] (''Oenanthe oenanthe'') are common near stone boundary walls and other stony places. [[Common grasshopper warbler|Grasshopper warbler]] (''Locustella naevia'') breed in scrub and tall heath. Trees on the moorland edges provide nesting sites for [[Lesser redpoll]] (''Acanthis cabaret''), [[common buzzard]] (''Buteo buteo'') and [[common raven|raven]] (''Corvus corax'').<ref name="southSSSI">{{cite web|title=South Exmoor |work=English Nature |url=http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1002269.pdf |access-date=20 August 2006 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061013121315/http://www.english-nature.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1002269.pdf |archive-date=13 October 2006 }}</ref>
===Flora===
[[Image:Sea of Heather on Dunkery.jpg|thumb|alt=Ground cover purple coloured plants, with hills in the background.|Dunkery Beacon, with heather in bloom]]
Uncultivated [[heath]] and moorland cover about a quarter of Exmoor landscape.<ref name="eelandscape"/> Some moors are covered by a variety of [[grass]]es and [[Cyperaceae|sedges]], while others are dominated by [[Calluna|heather]]. There are also cultivated areas including the [[Brendon Hills]], which lie in the east of the National Park. There are also {{convert|3000|ha|acre}} of [[Forestry Commission]] woodland,<ref>{{cite web| url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/environment/new-trees-and-woodlands-landing-page/working-woodlands| title=Working Woodlands on Exmoor| publisher=Exmoor National Park| access-date=31 May 2015| url-status=dead| archive-url=http://webarchive.nationalarchives.gov.uk/20150302220504/http%3A//www.exmoor%2Dnationalpark.gov.uk/environment/new%2Dtrees%2Dand%2Dwoodlands%2Dlanding%2Dpage/working%2Dwoodlands| archive-date=2 March 2015| df=dmy-all}}</ref> comprising a mixture of broad-leaved ([[oak]], [[Fraxinus|ash]] and [[hazel]]) and [[Pinophyta|conifer]] trees. Horner Woodlands and Tarr Steps woodlands are prime examples. The country's highest beech tree, {{convert|350|m|ft|abbr=on}} above sea level, is at Birch Cleave at Simonsbath but beech in hedgebanks grow up to {{convert|490|m|ft|abbr=on}}.<ref name="moorfacts"/> At least two species of [[whitebeam]]: ''[[Sorbus subcuneata]]'' and Sorbus 'Taxon D' are unique to Exmoor.<ref name="moorfacts"/> These woodlands are home to lichens, [[moss]]es and [[fern]]s. Exmoor is the only national location for the lichens ''Biatoridium delitescens'', ''Rinodina fimbriata'' and ''Rinodina flavosoralifera'', the latter having been found only on one individual tree.<ref name="moorfacts"/>
In 2024, plans were unveiled to plant approximately 38,000 trees near the sea on Exmoor as part of a larger initiative led by the [[National Trust]] to plant over 100,000 trees in northern Devon, aimed at supporting [[Celtic rainforest]]s. Among the species earmarked for planting is the nearly extinct [[Karpatiosorbus devoniensis|Devon whitebeam]], a tree found only in England's [[West Country]] and in [[Ireland]]. It can reproduce without fertilization and once had its edible fruit sold as "sorb apples" in Devon markets.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Morris |first=Steven |date=2024-01-29 |title=More than 100,000 trees to be planted in Devon to boost Celtic rainforest |url=https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2024/jan/29/more-than-100000-trees-to-be-planted-in-devon-to-boost-celtic-rainforest |access-date=2024-01-29 |work=The Guardian |language=en-GB |issn=0261-3077}}</ref>
===Fauna===
[[Image:hp Ponies.jpg|thumb|alt=Four small grey ponies in a grassy field.|A herd of Exmoor pony foals]]
[[Sheep]] have grazed on the moors for more than 3,000 years, shaping much of the Exmoor landscape by feeding on moorland grasses and heather. Traditional breeds include [[Exmoor Horn]], [[Cheviot sheep|Cheviot]] and [[Whiteface Dartmoor]] and [[Greyface Dartmoor]] sheep. [[North Devon cattle]] are also farmed in the area. [[Exmoor pony|Exmoor ponies]] can be seen roaming freely on the moors. They are a [[landrace]] rather than a [[breed]] of pony, and may be the closest breed to [[wild horse]]s remaining in Europe; they are also one of the oldest breeds of pony in the world.<ref name="ee409">{{cite web|url=http://www.everythingexmoor.org.uk/encyclopedia_detail.php?ENCid=409 |title=Exmoor Ponies |publisher=Everything Exmoor |access-date=15 May 2012 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140714202012/http://www.everythingexmoor.org.uk/encyclopedia_detail.php?ENCid=409 |archive-date=14 July 2014 }}</ref><ref name="ee411">{{cite web|url=http://www.everythingexmoor.org.uk/encyclopedia_detail.php?ENCid=411 |title=Exmoor Pony Society |publisher=Everything Exmoor |access-date=24 January 2013 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140714213411/http://www.everythingexmoor.org.uk/encyclopedia_detail.php?ENCid=411 |archive-date=14 July 2014 }}</ref> The ponies are rounded up once a year to be marked and checked over. In 1818 Sir [[Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, 11th Baronet|Thomas Acland]], the last warden of Exmoor, took thirty ponies and established the Acland Herd, now known as the Anchor Herd, whose direct descendants still roam the moor.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.moorlandmousietrust.org.uk/history.php |title=History |access-date=31 December 2011 |work=Exmoor Pony Centre |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120112042453/http://www.moorlandmousietrust.org.uk/history.php |archive-date=12 January 2012 }}</ref> In the [[World War II|Second World War]] the moor became a training ground, and the breed was nearly killed off, with only 50 ponies surviving the war.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/somerset/content/articles/2007/08/21/exmoor_pony_feature.shtml |title=Exmoor Ponies- a dying breed? |access-date=3 December 2007 |work=BBC Somerset |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121110222619/http://www.bbc.co.uk/somerset/content/articles/2007/08/21/exmoor_pony_feature.shtml |archive-date=10 November 2012 }}</ref> The ponies are classified as endangered by the [[Rare Breeds Survival Trust]], with only 390 breeding females left in the UK. In 2006 a Rural Enterprise Grant, administered locally by the South West Rural Development Service, was obtained to create a new Exmoor Pony Centre at Ashwick, at a disused farm with {{convert|7|ha|acre}} of land with a further {{convert|56|ha|acre}} of moorland.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.gov-news.org/gov/uk/news/new_pony_centre_to_support_preservation_of/59317.html |title=New pony centre to support preservation of Exmoor ponies |access-date=31 December 2011 |work=Department for Environment, Food And Rural Affairs (South West) |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120119000135/http://www.gov-news.org/gov/uk/news/new_pony_centre_to_support_preservation_of/59317.html |archive-date=19 January 2012 }}</ref>
[[Red deer]] have a stronghold on the moor and can be seen on quiet hillsides in remote areas, particularly in the early morning. The [[Emperor of Exmoor]], a red stag (''Cervus elaphus''), was Britain's largest known wild land animal, until it was killed in October 2010.<ref name=g>[https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2010/oct/25/exmoor-emperor-stag-shot-dead Exmoor, Emperor Stag, shot dead] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160307085152/http://www.theguardian.com/uk/2010/oct/25/exmoor-emperor-stag-shot-dead |date= 7 March 2016 }}. [[The Guardian]], 25 October 2010.</ref><ref name=exp>{{cite web |url=http://www.express.co.uk/news/uk/207559/The-Emperor-of-Exmoor-shot-dead-by-hunter
|title=The Emperor of Exmoor shot dead by hunter |publisher=The Daily Express | date=26 October 2010|access-date=30 November 2011}}</ref><ref>[https://www.thestar.com/news/world/2010/10/25/uk_furious_over_killing_of_majestic_stag.html U.K. furious over killing of majestic stag] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150106011022/http://www.thestar.com/news/world/2010/10/25/uk_furious_over_killing_of_majestic_stag.html |date= 6 January 2015 }}. [[The Toronto Star]] (Canada), 25 October 2010.</ref><ref>[http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/10/25/exmoor-emperor-britains-l_n_773319.html Exmoor Emperor, Britain's Largest Animal, Gunned Down In 'Trophy Hunt'] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101028152000/http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/10/25/exmoor-emperor-britains-l_n_773319.html |date=28 October 2010 }}. [[The Huffington Post]] (U.S.), 25 October 2010.</ref> The [[moorland]] habitat is also home to hundreds of species of [[bird]]s and [[insect]]s. Birds seen on the moor include [[Merlin (bird)|merlin]], [[peregrine falcon]], [[Eurasian curlew]], European stonechat, [[white-throated dipper|dipper]], [[Dartford warbler]] and [[ring ouzel]]. [[Black grouse]] and [[red grouse]] are now [[Extinction|extinct]] on Exmoor,<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/devon/outdoors/moors/exmoor_birds.shtml |title=Good and bad news on Exmoor's birds |access-date=3 December 2007 |work=BBC |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20050126072009/http://www.bbc.co.uk/devon/outdoors/moors/exmoor_birds.shtml |archive-date=26 January 2005 }}</ref> probably as a result of a reduction in habitat management, and for the former species, an increase in visitor pressure.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Ballance|first1=David|last2=Gibbs|first2=Brian D.|title=The Birds of Exmoor and the Quantocks|date=2003|publisher=Isabelline Books|isbn=978-0954295523|pages=1–16, 65–68}}</ref>
===Beast===
The [[Beast of Exmoor]] is a [[cryptozoology|cryptozoological]] [[cat]] (see [[phantom cat]]) that is reported to roam Exmoor. There have been numerous reports of eyewitness sightings. The BBC calls it "the famous-yet-elusive beast of Exmoor".<ref>{{cite web|title=Wilderness: Exmoor |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/naturescalendar/winter/wilderness/exmoor/exmoor.shtml |website=Nature |publisher=BBC |access-date=31 May 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150925132807/http://www.bbc.co.uk/naturescalendar/winter/wilderness/exmoor/exmoor.shtml |archive-date=25 September 2015 }}</ref> Sightings were first reported in the 1970s although it became notorious in 1983, when a [[South Molton]] farmer claimed to have lost over 100 sheep in the space of three months, all of them apparently killed by violent throat injuries. In response to these reports Royal Marine Commandos were deployed from bases in the West Country to watch for the mythical beast from covert observation points. After 6 months no sightings had been made by the Royal Marines and the deployments were ended. Descriptions of its colouration range from black to tan or dark grey. It is possibly a [[cougar]] or black [[leopard]] which was released after a law was passed in 1976 making it illegal for them to be kept in captivity outside zoos. In 2006, the British Big Cats Society reported that a skull found by a Devon farmer was that of a puma; however, the [[Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs]] (Defra) states, "Based on the evidence, Defra does not believe that there are big cats living in the wild in England."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.britishbigcats.org/ |title=Exclusive BBCS report reveals startling new evidence for big cats in Britain |access-date=1 January 2008 |work=British Big Cats Society |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080113171022/http://www.britishbigcats.org/ |archive-date=13 January 2008 }}</ref>
==Government and politics==
[[File:Exmoor_Flag.svg|thumb|The official [[Flag of Exmoor]], unveiled at the West Somerset Railway Station in Minehead on 29 October 2014<ref>{{cite web|title=Exmoor Flag Home |url=http://exmoorflag.co.uk/ |publisher=Exmoor Flag |access-date=31 May 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150126102529/http://exmoorflag.co.uk/ |archive-date=26 January 2015 }}</ref>]]
The National Park, 71% of which is in Somerset and 29% in Devon,<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.somerset.gov.uk/irj/public/services/directory/service?rid=/wpccontent/Sites/SCC/Web%20Pages/Services/Services/Environment/Somerset%20and%20Exmoor%20National%20Park%20joint%20structure%20plan |title=Somerset & Exmoor National Park Joint Structure Plan |access-date=31 December 2011 |work=Somerset County Council |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120606173607/http://www.somerset.gov.uk/irj/public/services/directory/service?rid=%2Fwpccontent%2FSites%2FSCC%2FWeb%20Pages%2FServices%2FServices%2FEnvironment%2FSomerset%20and%20Exmoor%20National%20Park%20joint%20structure%20plan |archive-date=6 June 2012 }}</ref> has a resident population of 10,600.<ref name="moorfacts"/> It was designated a National Park in 1954, under the 1949 National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act.<ref name="authority">{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=127777 |title=Our National Parks |access-date=31 May 2015 |publisher=Exmoor National Park |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131013072419/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=127777 |archive-date=13 October 2013 }}</ref> About three quarters of the park is privately owned, made up of numerous private estates. The largest landowners are the [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]], which owns over 10% of the land, and the National Park Authority, which owns about 7%. Other areas are owned by the [[Forestry Commission]], [[Crown Estate]] and Water Companies. The largest private landowner is the ''Badgworthy Land Company'', which represents hunting interests.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=127777 |title=Our National Parks |access-date=31 May 2015 |work=Exmoor National Park |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131013072419/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=127777 |archive-date=13 October 2013 }}</ref>
From 1954 on, local government was the responsibility of the district and county councils, which remain responsible for the social and economic well-being of the local community. Since 1997 the Exmoor National Park Authority, which is known as a 'single purpose' authority, has taken over some functions to meet its aims to "conserve and enhance the natural beauty, wildlife and cultural heritage of the National Parks" and "promote opportunities for the understanding and enjoyment of the special qualities of the parks by the public",<ref>{{cite web |title=Who runs the authority |url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/about-us/who-runs-the-authority |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=31 December 2011 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111114135937/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/about-us/who-runs-the-authority |archive-date=14 November 2011 }}</ref> including responsibility for the conservation of the historic environment.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/professional/research/landscapes-and-areas/national-mapping-programme/exmoor-national-park-nmp/ |title=Exmoor National Park NMP |access-date=30 November 2011 |publisher=English Heritage|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130806004901/http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/professional/research/landscapes-and-areas/national-mapping-programme/exmoor-national-park-nmp/|archive-date=6 August 2013 }}</ref>
The Park Authority receives 80% of its funding as a direct grant from the government. The Park Authority Committee consists of members from parish and county councils, and six appointed by the [[Secretary of State (United Kingdom)|Secretary of State]]. The work is carried out by 80 staff including rangers, volunteers and a team of estate workers who carry out a wide range of tasks including maintaining the many miles of rights of way, [[hedge laying]], fencing, swaling, walling, invasive weed control and habitat management on National Park Authority land.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/about-us/working-with-us |title=Working with us |access-date=31 December 2011 |work=Exmoor National Park |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111114135940/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/about-us/working-with-us |archive-date=14 November 2011 }}</ref> There are ongoing debates between the authority and farmers over the biological monitoring of SSSIs, showing the need for a controlled regime of grazing and burning; farmers claim that these regimes are not practical or effective in the long term.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/environment/moorland/moorland-the-heart-of-exmoor |title=Exmoor Moorland Landscape Partnership |access-date=31 December 2011 |publisher=Exmoor National Park |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121225105009/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/environment/moorland/moorland-the-heart-of-exmoor |archive-date=25 December 2012 }}</ref>
The National Park Authority operates CareMoor for Exmoor as an opportunity for those that appreciate the area to give back, with donations supporting conservation and access projects.
==Sport and recreation==
[[Sightseeing]], [[walking]], [[cycling]] and [[mountain biking]] taking in Exmoor's dramatic heritage coastline and moorland countryside scenery are the main attractions.
The [[South West Coast Path]] starts at [[Minehead]] and follows all along the Exmoor coast before continuing to [[Poole]].
<ref name="Xs4all.nl"/><ref name="Britainexpress.com"/>
The [[Coleridge Way]] is an {{convert|82|km|mi|abbr=on}} [[trail|footpath]]<ref>{{cite web|author=MKH Computer Services Ltd. |url=http://www.ldwa.org.uk/ldp/members/show_path.php?path_name=Coleridge+Way |title=Coleridge Way&nbsp;— LDWA Long Distance Paths |publisher=Ldwa.org.uk |access-date=1 August 2009}}</ref> which follows the walks taken by poet [[Samuel Taylor Coleridge]] to [[Lynmouth]], starting from [[Coleridge Cottage]] at [[Nether Stowey]] in the [[Quantock Hills|Quantocks]] where he once lived.
The [[Two Moors Way]] runs from [[Ivybridge]] in [[South Devon]] to [[Lynmouth]] on the [[North Devon Coast|coast of North Devon]], crossing parts of both Dartmoor and Exmoor.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.coleridgeway.co.uk/ |title=The Coleridge Way |access-date=3 December 2007 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071213073355/http://www.coleridgeway.co.uk/ |archive-date=13 December 2007 }}</ref> Both of these walks intersect with the [[South West Coast Path]], Britain's longest National Trail.
Other Exmoor walking trails include the [[Tarka Trail]], [[Samaritans Way South West]], [[Macmillan Way West]], [[Exe Valley Way]] and [[Celtic Way]] Exmoor Option.
In addition to long distant walks the Exmoor National Park Authority promote a series 'top walks' in 3 collections of Exmoor Strolls (step and stile free routes more accessible routes), Exmoor Explorers (shorter walks to discover the best of Exmoor) and Exmoor Classics (longer walks to discover more of Exmoor).
For others, although the [[Hunting and shooting in the United Kingdom|hunting]] of animal with hounds was made illegal by the [[Hunting Act 2004]], the Exmoor hunts still meet in full regalia and there is a campaign to resurrect this rural sport.<ref>{{cite news|first=PJ |last=O'Rourke |author-link=P. J. O'Rourke |title=Goodwill Hunting |url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2005/sep/17/ruralaffairs.hunting |work=The Guardian |date=17 August 2007 |access-date=7 December 2007 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140228152505/http://www.theguardian.com/uk/2005/sep/17/ruralaffairs.hunting |archive-date=28 February 2014 }}</ref> Nine hunts cover the area—the Devon and Somerset Staghounds and the [[Quantock Staghounds]], the Exmoor, Dulverton West, Dulverton Farmers and West Somerset Foxhounds, the Minehead Harriers, the West Somerset Beagles and the North Devon Beagles. During the spring, amateur steeplechase meetings ([[Point-to-point (steeplechase)|point-to-points]]) are run by hunts at temporary courses such as [[Bratton Fleming|Bratton Down]] and Holnicote. These, along with [[Thoroughbred horse racing|thoroughbred racing]] and [[Horse racing|pony racing]], are an opportunity for farmers, hunt staff and the public to witness a day of traditional country entertainment.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/news/397/72478.html |title=Exmoor huntsman case delayed |access-date=7 December 2007 |work=Horse and Hound|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110720044701/http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/news/397/72478.html|archive-date=20 July 2011 }}</ref>
==Places of interest==
[[Image:North Devon Exmoor.jpg|alt=White signpost on a path on the left. To the right are rolling green fields on the hillsides.|thumb|Exmoor landscape]]
The attractions of Exmoor include 208 [[Scheduled monument]]s, 16 conservation areas, and other [[Freedom to roam|open access land]] as designated by the [[Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000]]. Exmoor receives approximately 1.4&nbsp;million visitor days per year which include single day visits and those for longer periods.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nationalparks.gov.uk/learningabout/whatisanationalpark/factsandfigures |title=National Park Facts and Figures |access-date=31 May 2015 |work=National Parks |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150530024512/http://www.nationalparks.gov.uk/learningabout/whatisanationalpark/factsandfigures |archive-date=30 May 2015 |df=dmy-all }}</ref>
The Exmoor National Park Authority operates three Exmoor National Park Centres in Dulverton, Dunster and Lynmouth to provide information and inspiration for users of the National Park.
Attractions on the coast include the [[Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway]], which connects [[Lynton]] to neighbouring picturesque [[Lynmouth]] at the confluence of the [[East Lyn River|East Lyn]] and [[West Lyn River|West Lyn]] rivers, nearby [[Valley of Rocks]] and [[Watersmeet House|Watersmeet]].
[[Woody Bay, Devon|Woody Bay]], a few miles west of [[Lynton]], is home to the [[Lynton and Barnstaple Railway|Lynton & Barnstaple Railway]], a [[narrow-gauge railway]] which once connected the twin towns of [[Lynton]] and [[Lynmouth]] to [[Barnstaple]], about 31&nbsp;km (just over 19&nbsp;miles) away.<ref>{{cite web|title=L & B History |url=http://www.lynton-rail.co.uk/page/lb-history |publisher=Lynton and Barnstaple Railway |access-date=10 October 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150912141514/http://www.lynton-rail.co.uk/page/lb-history |archive-date=12 September 2015 }}</ref>
Further along the coast, [[Porlock]] is a quiet coastal town with an adjacent [[salt marsh]] nature reserve and a harbour at nearby [[Porlock Weir]]. [[Watchet]] is a historic harbour town with a marina and is home to a carnival, which is held annually in July.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/somerset/4422008.stm|title=Carnival is given 2006 reprieve|publisher=BBC|access-date=21 November 2009 | date=9 November 2005}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.watchetcarnival.org.uk/ |title=Watchet Carnival (Homepage) |publisher=Watchet Carnival |access-date=8 December 2007 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071023094128/http://www.watchetcarnival.org.uk/ |archive-date=23 October 2007 }}</ref>
Inland, many of the attractions are small towns and villages or linked to the river valleys, such as the ancient clapper bridge at [[Tarr Steps]] and the Snowdrop Valley near [[Wheddon Cross]], which is carpeted in [[Galanthus|snowdrops]] in February<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/somerset/content/image_galleries/snowdrop_valley_2006_gallery.shtml |publisher=BBC |title=Exmoor's Snowdrop Valley |access-date=1 January 2008 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070303113524/http://www.bbc.co.uk/somerset/content/image_galleries/snowdrop_valley_2006_gallery.shtml |archive-date= 3 March 2007 }}</ref> and, later, displays [[Hyacinthoides non-scripta|bluebells]]. [[Withypool]] is also in the Barle Valley, the Two Moors Way passes through the village.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.devon.gov.uk/index/transport/public_rights_of_way/where_to_walk_and_ride/two_moors_way.htm |title=Two Moors Way |access-date=1 January 2008 |work=Devon County Council |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071101015448/http://www.devon.gov.uk/index/transport/public_rights_of_way/where_to_walk_and_ride/two_moors_way.htm |archive-date=1 November 2007 }}</ref> As well as [[Dunster Castle]],<ref>{{NHLE |num=1057643 |desc=Dunster Castle and gatehouse |access-date=28 September 2007}}</ref> Dunster's other attractions include a priory,<ref>{{NHLE |num=1057646 |desc=Priory Church of St George |access-date=28 September 2007}}</ref> [[dovecote]], yarn market,<ref>{{NHLE |num=1173428 |desc=Yarn Market |access-date=28 September 2007}}</ref> inn,<ref>{{NHLE |num=1057611 |desc=The Luttrell Arms Hotel |access-date=28 September 2007}}</ref> [[packhorse bridge]], mill and a stop on the [[West Somerset Railway]]. [[Exford, Somerset|Exford]] lies on the River Exe.
Exmoor has been the setting for several [[novel]]s including the 19th-century ''Lorna Doone: A Romance of Exmoor'' by [[R. D. Blackmore]], and [[Margaret Drabble]]'s 1998 novel ''[[The Witch of Exmoor]]''. The park was featured on the television programme ''[[Seven Natural Wonders]]'' twice, as one of the wonders of the [[West Country]].
[[Wheal Eliza Mine]] on the River Barle near Simonsbath was an unsuccessful copper and iron mine.<ref>{{cite web|title=MSO6802 - Wheal Eliza Mine |url=http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/record.aspx?UID=MSO6802-Wheal-Eliza-Mine |work=Exmoor Historic Environment Record |publisher=Exmoor National Park |access-date=23 March 2014 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140325005413/http://www.exmoorher.co.uk/hbsmr-web/record.aspx?UID=MSO6802-Wheal-Eliza-Mine |archive-date=25 March 2014 }}</ref>
Near [[Wheddon Cross]] is Snowdrop Valley, which becomes filled with thousands of little white flowers called [[snowdrops]] during early spring. Within the valley is a [[sawmill]], formerly powered by the River Avill, which runs through the valley.<ref>{{cite web|title=Snowdrop Valley Wheddon Cross|url=http://www.wheddoncross.org.uk/Snowdrop%20Leaflet%202017%20front.pdf|publisher=Wheddon Cross|access-date=6 October 2017|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171007115929/http://www.wheddoncross.org.uk/Snowdrop%20Leaflet%202017%20front.pdf|archive-date=7 October 2017|df=dmy-all}}</ref>
==See also==
{{Portal|Somerset}}
*[[moorland|Moor]]
*[[Hope Bourne]], author of ''Living On Exmoor'' (1963)
*[[Exmore]] in Virginia (US), named after Exmoor
==References==
{{reflist|colwidth=30em}}
==Further reading==
*{{cite book |title=Exmoor Geology: Exploring the Landscapes, Rocks and Mines of the National Park |last=Edwards |first=R.A. |year=2000 |publisher=Exmoor Books |isbn=0-86183-411-9 }}
*{{cite book |title=Moorland management: a study of Exmoor. |last1=Miller |first1=G.R. |last2=Miles |first2=J. |last3=Heal |first3=O.W. |year=1984 |publisher=Institute of Terrestrial Ecology |location=Cambridge }}
*{{cite book |title=The Field Archaeology of Exmoor |last1=Riley |first1=Hazel |last2= Wilson-North |first2=Robert |year=2001 |publisher=English Heritage |location=Swindon |isbn=978-1-873592-58-8|url=http://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archives/view/eh_monographs_2014/contents.cfm?mono=1089029}}
*MacDermot E.T. A History of the Forest of Exmoor, 1911
*Siraut, Mary. Exmoor: Making of an English Upland, 2009. (Author is Somerset editor for the Victoria County History series)
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20140309172855/http://www.ebooksread.com/authors-eng/archibald-hamilton/the-red-deer-of-exmoor-with-notes-on-those-who-hunted-them-from-robert-dauber-ima/page-12-the-red-deer-of-exmoor-with-notes-on-those-who-hunted-them-from-robert-dauber-ima.shtml Hamilton, Archibald. The Red Deer of Exmoor, 1906, Chapter 12, The Forest of Exmoor under the Plantagenets and Tudors], pp.&nbsp;190–210
*{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=122272 |title=Geography of Exmoor&nbsp;– Filex 4 |access-date=30 November 2011 |work=Exmoor National Park |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120405074027/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=122272 |archive-date= 5 April 2012 }}
*{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=116440 |title=Geology of Exmoor&nbsp;– Filex 5 |access-date=30 November 2011 |work=Exmoor National Park |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120225131355/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=116440 |archive-date=25 February 2012 }}
*{{cite web |url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=122100 |title=A history of Exmoor&nbsp;– Filex 6 |access-date=30 November 2011 |work=Exmoor National Park |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120905084719/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=122100 |archive-date=5 September 2012 }}
*{{cite web|url=http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=116679 |title=Wildlife on Exmoor&nbsp;– Filex 9 |access-date=30 November 2011 |work=Exmoor National Park |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120405074132/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/learning/?a=116679 |archive-date= 5 April 2012 }}
==External links==
{{Commons category|Exmoor}}
{{Wikivoyage|Exmoor}}
{{Spoken Wikipedia|Exmoor.ogg|date=2008-07-21}}
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20060203043429/http://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/ Exmoor National Park Authority]
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20120606223551/http://www.exmoorsociety.com/index.htm The Exmoor Society]&nbsp;– a charity to protect and enhance the landscapes of Exmoor
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{{National parks in the UK}}
{{Rivers of Exmoor}}
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[[Category:Exmoor| ]]
[[Category:Hills of Somerset]]
[[Category:English royal forests]]
[[Category:Environment of Somerset]]
[[Category:Hills of Devon]]
[[Category:Geography of Somerset]]
[[Category:West Somerset]]
[[Category:Geology of Devon]]
[[Category:Parks and open spaces in Devon]]
[[Category:Parks and open spaces in Somerset]]
[[Category:Protected areas established in 1954]]
[[Category:National parks in England]]
[[Category:Dark-sky preserves in England]]
[[Category:International Dark Sky Reserves]]
[[Category:Natural regions of England]]
[[Category:Moorlands of England]]