View source for Judge C. R. Magney State Park

{{short description|State park in Minnesota, United States}}
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| name            = Judge C. R. Magney State Park
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| photo           = Devil's Kettle - 2015-09-13 - 1.jpg
| photo_caption   = Devil's Kettle at Judge C. R. Magney State Park
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| map             = USA Minnesota#USA
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| map_caption     = Location of Judge C.R. Magney State Park in Minnesota
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| location        = [[Cook County, Minnesota|Cook]], Minnesota, United States
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| area_acre       = 4643
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| elevation       = {{convert|1073|ft|m|abbr=on}}<ref>{{cite web | url={{Gnis3|659247}} | title=Judge C R Magney State Park | date = 1991-02-01 | work=[[Geographic Names Information System]] | publisher=[[United States Geological Survey]] | access-date=2011-02-25}}</ref>
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| established     = 1957
| named_for       = [[Clarence R. Magney]]
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| governing_body  = Minnesota Department of Natural Resources
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'''Judge C. R. Magney State Park''' is a [[state park]] in the [[U.S. state]] of [[Minnesota]], on the [[North Shore (Lake Superior)|North Shore]] of [[Lake Superior]]. It was named for [[Clarence R. Magney]], a former mayor of [[Duluth, Minnesota|Duluth]] and justice of the [[Minnesota Supreme Court]], who was instrumental in getting 11 state parks and scenic waysides established along the North Shore.<ref name="Brochure">{{cite web |title=Judge C.R. Magney State Park |url=http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/maps/state_parks/spk00193.pdf |publisher=State of Minnesota, Department of Natural Resources |date=May 2009 |access-date=2010-04-05}}</ref>  The park is best known for the '''Devil's Kettle''', an unusual waterfall and [[Rock formations in the United States|rock formation]] in which half of the [[Brule River (Minnesota)|Brule River]] disappears into a [[giant's kettle|pothole]].{{citation needed|date=September 2022}}
== Geography ==
Judge C. R. Magney State Park is located on scenic [[Minnesota State Highway 61]], {{convert|25|mi|km}} from the [[Canada–United States border]].<ref name="Mosher">{{cite book | last = Mosher |first = Mary Jo | year = 2002 | title = Hiking Minnesota II | publisher = Falcon | location = Guilford, Conn. | isbn = 0-7627-2348-3}}</ref> The last {{convert|8|mi|km}} of the Brule River flow through the park, dropping {{convert|800|ft|m}} and producing several waterfalls and cascades.<ref name="Plan">{{Cite report |title = Judge C R Magney State Park Management Plan | author = Minnesota Division of Parks and Recreation, Park Planning Section | year = 1985 | publisher = Minnesota Department of Natural Resources}}</ref>
A tributary of the Brule, Gauthier Creek, flows in from the west. Mons Creek, an intermittent stream on the park's northeast border, drains a small marsh.<ref name="Plan" /> This stretch of the Brule River has three named [[waterfall]]s. At {{convert|1|mi|km}} from the lakeshore, Lower Falls drops {{convert|7|ft|m}} over two steps just before the mouth of Gauthier Creek.<ref name="Wallinga">{{cite book | last1 = Wallinga | first1 = Eve | last2 = Wallinga | first2 = Gary | year = 2006 | title = Waterfalls of Minnesota's North Shore | publisher = North Shore Press | location = Hovland, Minn. | isbn = 978-0-9740-2071-6}}</ref><ref name="Simonowicz">{{cite book | last = Simonowicz | first = Nina A. | year = 2004 | title = Nina's North Shore Guide: Big Lake, Big Woods, Big Fun | url = https://archive.org/details/ninasnorthshoreg0000simo_r3j6 | url-access = registration | publisher = University of Minnesota Press | location = Minneapolis, Minn. | isbn = 978-0-8166-4440-7}}</ref>
A short distance upstream are the Upper Falls, dropping {{convert|25|ft|m}}, and Devil's Kettle Falls.<ref name="Wallinga" />  From the Devil's Kettle to Upper Falls the river flows through a {{convert|1/4|mi|km m|adj=on}} rocky gorge, as does the last {{convert|1/2|mi|km m}} of Gauthier Creek.<ref name="Mosher" /><ref name="Green">{{cite book | last = Green | first = John C. | year = 1996 | title = Geology on Display: Geology and Scenery of Minnesota's North Shore State Parks | publisher = Minnesota Department of Natural Resources | location = St. Paul, Minn. | isbn = 0-9657127-0-2}}</ref>{{rp|56}}
Developed areas and trail access are confined to the lower third of the park.<ref name="Green" />{{rp|54}} The northern section is rugged and difficult to access, with open ridges stepping away from the river valley.<ref name="Johnson">{{cite book | last1 = Johnson | first1 = Steve | last2 = Belanger | first2 = Kenneth | year = 2007 | title = Minnesota Waterfalls | publisher = Trails Books | location = Madison, Wis. | isbn = 978-1-931599-80-1}}</ref> These extremes produce an elevation change of about {{convert|1000|ft|m}} within the park. The state park is entirely within [[Grand Portage State Forest]], although most of the land directly adjacent to the park is privately owned [[inholding]]s.<ref>{{cite book | last = Sportsman's Connection | year = 2007 | title = Northeastern Minnesota All-Outdoors Atlas | publisher = Sportsman's Connection| location = Superior, Wis. | isbn = 978-1-885010-41-4}}</ref> The park has a [[continental climate]] of extreme seasonal variation, moderated by Lake Superior, which keeps the shore areas {{convert|6|to|8|F-change|C-change K-change}} warmer in winter and cooler in summer than the inland part of the region.<ref name="Plan" /> Thus winters tend to be mild and [[snow]]y.<ref name="Brochure" />
== Natural history ==
=== Geology ===
The park is underlain by alternating layers of [[basalt]] and [[rhyolite]], which were erupted from the [[Midcontinent Rift System]] 1.1 billion years ago when the middle of the [[North American Plate]] began to crack. These layers bear [[intrusion]]s of [[gabbro]] and [[diabase]] in the north and [[ferrodiorite]] in the south near the lakeshore.<ref name="Green" />{{rp|54}} The rift itself formed a great basin, which gradually filled with [[sedimentary rock]].  The volcanic layers to either side became tilted; the basalt and rhyolite layers underneath the park dip about 12° and are estimated to be some {{convert|4800|ft|m}} thick altogether.<ref name="Green" />{{rp|56}}
From 2 million years ago to 10,000 years ago a series of [[glacial period]]s repeatedly covered the region with ice, scouring the bedrock and scooping out the accumulated rock in the great basin. As the glaciers began to melt at the end of the [[last glacial period]], pockets of rock and dirt [[till]] were left behind while the basin filled with meltwater, forming glacial [[Lake Duluth]].  A layer of red [[sediment]] with [[clay minerals]] remains from this time on flat, inland areas of the park. The changing configuration of the receding glaciers, plus [[post-glacial rebound]] of the surrounding land, altered the depth and area of the glacial Great Lakes.  The succession of lake levels left a series of [[beach ridge]]s, wave-cut bluffs, and [[terrace (geology)|terrace]]s at several elevations.  These land forms are visible all along Minnesota's North Shore, but Judge C. R. Magney State Park is the only park bearing the complete series from the high water of Glacial Lake Duluth to the level of [[Glacial Lake Nipissing]] just above the current Superior shore.<ref name="Green" />{{rp|58}} As the lake levels changed, so too did the rivers flowing into them. Several former [[stream bed]]s and [[river delta|deltas]] can be identified at the southern end of the park. The campground sits on a delta, and a former stream bed lies directly opposite the park entrance.<ref>Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. Judge C.R. Magney State Park interpretive signage.</ref>
=== Devil's Kettle ===
{{stack|[[File:Devil's Kettle - 2015-09-13 - 2.jpg|thumb|The Devil's Kettle.]]}}
The park is best known for "The Devil's Kettle", an unusual waterfall located on the [[Brule River (Minnesota)|Brule River]] {{convert|1.5|mi|km}} from its mouth.<ref name="Plan" /> The river splits in two to flow around a mass of [[rhyolite]] rock. The eastern flow goes over a two-step, {{convert|50|ft|m|adj=on}} waterfall and continues downstream.<ref name="Brochure" /> The western flow surges into a pothole, falling at least {{convert|10|ft|m|0}}, from where it was popularly understood to "disappear underground".<ref name="Cook">{{Cite news | last = Cook | first = Sam | title = Even on raw autumn day, trail's newest segment measures up - NORTH SHORE: Hikers check out the nine-mile section between Judge C.R. Magney State Park and the Canadian border | newspaper = Duluth News Tribune | location = Duluth, Minn. | date = 2003-09-28}}</ref>
Visitors have reportedly dropped sticks, ping pong balls, and GPS trackers into the Devil's Kettle without seeing them resurface downstream.<ref name=Kraker>{{cite web |last=Kraker |first=Dan |title=Solved: the mystery of Devil's Kettle Falls |url=http://www.mprnews.org/story/2017/02/28/hydrologists-solve-minnesota-devils-kettle-falls-mystery |publisher=MPR News |date=2017-02-28 |access-date=2017-03-06}}</ref> According to legend, someone even pushed a car into the fissure, but given that the Devil's Kettle is wholly inaccessible by road, most commentators have dismissed this as hyperbole.<ref name="Wallinga" /> These stories have led to speculation that the channel had a separate outlet into Lake Superior, or more implausibly plunged deep underground or connected to another watershed entirely.<ref name="Simonowicz" /><ref name="Johnson" /><ref>{{Cite news | last = LaFave | first = Nick | title = Northland summer destination: Devil's Kettle mystifies hikers in Magney Park | newspaper = Duluth News Tribune | location = Duluth, Minn. | date = 2009-07-15}}</ref>
For decades, no satisfactory geological explanation was offered for the Devil's Kettle phenomenon, and it was a popular regional mystery.<ref name="Green" />{{rp|57}} The underlying rock is not suitable for the formation of large underground passages, which are generally restricted to porous rock like [[limestone]]. Although [[lava tube]]s can form in certain [[igneous rock]], they cannot appear in rhyolite, and the underlying basalt is both too deep and not formed in the proper volcanic conditions for tubes. The area is not known to contain any [[fault (geology)|faults]], and even if it did, it would not be [[permeability (earth sciences)|permeable]] enough to drain half the river.<ref name="Green" />{{rp|57}}
Experiments conducted in late fall 2016 and announced by the [[Minnesota Department of Natural Resources]] (DNR) in February 2017 strongly indicated that the disappearing water simply flows back into the Brule River shortly below the falls. At the suggestion of state hydrologist Jeff Green, two DNR experts measured the water flow above the falls and several hundred feet (meters) below them.  The two readings were virtually identical, suggesting no water was being lost to some other outlet.<ref>{{cite news |last=Brooks |first=Jennifer |title=Scientists think they've solved the mystery of Devil's Kettle Falls |url=http://www.startribune.com/scientists-think-they-ve-solved-the-mystery-of-devil-s-kettle-falls/414996694/ |newspaper=Star Tribune |location=Minneapolis |date=2017-03-01 |access-date=2018-07-24}}</ref> They accounted for the failure of visitors' floating objects to reemerge by explaining that the powerful currents in the kettle's [[plunge pool]] would be enough to hold down most material until it was pulverized.<ref>{{cite journal |last=Zeppelin |first=Cheri |title=Scientists Solve Geological Puzzle |url=http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/issues/2017/mar-apr/devils-kettle-mystery.html |journal=Minnesota Conservation Volunteer |date=March–April 2017 |access-date=2017-03-06}}</ref>
Green and a colleague planned to conduct a [[dye tracing]] experiment in the fall of 2017 when water flows dropped again, with the hope of determining where the underground channel rejoins the main river. They were discouraged from doing so, however, by park management, and they decided (under duress) that the dye experiment was not scientifically necessary to confirm that the water simply rejoins the river below the falls.<ref>{{cite web |last=Friedrichs |first=Joe |title=DNR does not complete dye-trace study at Devil's Kettle |url=https://www.wtip.org/dnr-does-not-complete-dye-trace-study |publisher=WTIP |date=2017-12-17 |access-date=2021-02-26}}</ref>
=== Flora and fauna ===
With an elevation change of {{convert|1000|ft|m}}, Judge C. R. Magney State Park supports a wide variety of flora and fauna.<ref name="Johnson" /> Overall, the park contains [[Laurentian Mixed Forest Province|Laurentian Mixed Forest]] comprising both [[pinophyta|conifers]] and broadleafs. Before European settlement the Brule River Valley would have been forested mostly with [[Pinus strobus|white pine]]. Extensive logging and forest fires have altered the park's vegetation significantly, except around the rocky and inaccessible ridgetops.  Today's [[secondary forest]] is dominated by aspen and birch, with stands of white spruce, sugar maple, and basswood.  A few remnant stands of white pine have survived on hilltops and ravines, especially along Gauthier Creek.<ref name="Plan" />  Large [[Thuja occidentalis|northern white cedars]] are abundant along the river.<ref name="Mosher" /> Inland are many dense stands of [[Picea glauca|white spruce]], the result of planting and vigorous natural reseeding after the timber harvests.<ref name="Plan" />  Around the waterfalls, the constant mist creates a [[microclimate]] conducive to several plant species not found elsewhere in the park.<ref name="Meyer">{{cite book | last = Meyer |first = Roy W. | year = 1991 | title = Everyone's Country Estate: A History of Minnesota's State Parks | publisher = Minnesota Historical Society Press | location = St. Paul, Minn. | isbn = 0-87351-266-9}}</ref>
The large mammals found in the park, particularly in the remote northern section, are [[white-tailed deer]], [[western moose|moose]], [[American black bear|black bears]], [[red fox]]es, and [[wolf|timber wolves]]. Smaller mammals include [[groundhog]]s, [[American red squirrel|red squirrels]], [[eastern chipmunk]]s, [[American marten|marten]]s, and [[snowshoe hare]]s.<ref name="Johnson" /><ref name="Website">{{Cite web | last = Minnesota Department of Natural Resources | title = Judge C.R. Magney State Park | publisher = Minnesota Department of Natural Resources | year = 2010 | url = http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/judge_cr_magney/index.html | access-date = 2010-04-05}}</ref> [[Broad-winged hawk]]s, [[barred owl]]s, and [[great horned owl]]s are prevalent, while many other [[bird of prey|raptor]] species pass through the park during their [[bird migration|migration]]. Several species of [[New World warbler|warblers]] nest in the park.<ref name="Plan" />  The Brule River and its tributary Gauthier Creek have spawning runs of [[rainbow trout]] in spring and [[salmon]] in the fall.<ref>{{cite book | last1 = Link |first1 = Mike | last2 = Crowley | first2 = Kate | year = 1990 | title = Minnesota's State Parks: Celebrating One Hundred Years | publisher = Voyageur Press | location = Stillwater, Minn. | isbn = 0-89658-103-9}}</ref>
White-tailed deer are not endemic to northern Minnesota, having expanded into the region to take advantage of the plant regrowth during the logging period. In the 1940s and 1950s, as many as 300 deer per square mile were observed. The population has dropped as the forest has matured, but the deer still pose a management challenge as they overgraze young trees of certain species, over time altering the composition of the forest.<ref name="Plan" /> The park has fenced deer [[exclosures]] around reseeded white pines.<ref name="Mosher" />
== Cultural history ==
The [[Ojibwe]] called the river ''Wiskode-zibi'' (Half-burned Wood River), which was translated directly into French as ''Bois Brulé'' and shortened by English speakers to "Brule River".  The name likely refers to an early [[wildfire|forest fire]], and fires played a significant role in the park's early history.  A series of fires in northern Wisconsin in 1892 to 1894 forced lumber companies to abandon that area and cross Lake Superior to begin [[logging]] the North Shore even though the quality of the timber was lower.  The Red Cliff Lumber Company was headquartered a few miles west of the Brule River, and much of the future park was logged at this time.  However logging practices of the day foreshortened the harvest of North Shore timber too, as slash left on the ground for several dry years fueled a devastating fire in 1908.  Droughts and fires bedeviled the North Shore for the next 30 years.  In 1928 the General Logging Company began harvesting second-growth wood in the Brule and [[Cascade River (Minnesota)|Cascade River]] valleys for a pulp mill in Grand Marais, but once again a devastating fire in 1931 burned {{convert|25000|acre|ha}} and brought the industry to a halt.<ref name="Plan" />
The slowly regenerating Brule Valley very nearly became an exclusive resort for the wealthy, as entrepreneurs from Duluth formed the Naniboujou Club and planned a luxurious lakeside complex with a 150-room lodge, cabins, bathhouses, tennis courts, a golf course, and a swimming pool, all powered by a [[hydroelectricity|hydroelectric]] dam on the Brule.<ref name="Gardner">{{cite book | last = Gardner |first = Denis P. | year = 2004 | title = Minnesota Treasures: Stories Behind the State's Historic Places | publisher = Minnesota Historical Society Press | location = St. Paul, Minn. | isbn = 978-0-87351-471-2}}</ref>  With a membership of almost 600, the club purchased {{convert|3300|acre|ha}} along the shoreline and planned to buy another {{convert|8000|acre|ha}} inland.<ref name="Gauper">{{Cite news | last = Gauper | first = Beth | title = On the North Shore, a jazz-age lodge still inspires reverence | newspaper = Pioneer Press | location = St. Paul, Minn. | date = 2002-11-10}}</ref>  The [[Naniboujou Club Lodge]] was completed in July 1929, but then the [[Wall Street Crash of 1929]] struck that October, triggering the [[Great Depression]].  The rest of the complex was never built, and the lodge went through a succession of owners and periods of closure.<ref name="Gauper" />
Instead of wealthy families, the next residents of the future park were homeless men.  In 1934 the state bought {{convert|3000|acre|ha}} from the Naniboujou Club and opened a "[[transient camp]]" on the Brule River to provide work and housing for men made homeless by the Depression.  At first it was managed by the state's Division of Forestry and named the Grover Conzet Camp after their director, but at the end of 1936 it was transferred to the federal [[Works Progress Administration]].<ref name="Zankman">{{Cite journal | last = Zankman | first = Pat | title = The Grover Conzet Transient Camp | journal = Overlook | pages = 3–4 | publisher = Cook County Historical Society | location = Grand Marais, Minn. | date = Winter 2000–2001}}</ref>  The camp consisted of fourteen barracks, two recreation halls, two bathhouses, a dining hall, and a bakery, as well as three workshops, an office, a garage, a warehouse, and a root cellar.<ref name="Zankman" />  About 800 men rotated through the camp, conducting [[forestry]] projects such as planting trees and building [[firebreak|fire roads]].<ref>{{cite book | last = Olsenius |first = Richard | year = 1982 | title = Minnesota Travel Companion: A Guide to the History Along Minnesota's Highways| publisher = Bluestem | location = Wayzata, Minn. | isbn = 0-9609064-0-1}}</ref>  They also developed a small public park and built the trail and stairs leading to the Devil's Kettle.<ref name="Mosher" /><ref name="Green" />{{rp|55}}  The enrollees also farmed some of their own food and battled a 1936 forest fire that burned {{convert|10000|acre|ha}} north of [[Hovland, Minnesota|Hovland]].  After the fire they built a [[sawmill]] and salvaged some of the downed wood.<ref name="Plan" />  In return the men received wages, medical services, clothing, running water, and access to reading material and a radio.  Despite these benefits a visiting timber union leader managed to foment a rebellion in February 1938 in which the administrators were briefly ejected from camp before state and local officials restored order.<ref name="Zankman" />  The WPA departed in July 1938 and the U.S. Indian Service converted the facility into a camp for Ojibwe youth.<ref name="Zankman" />  The concrete foundations of several camp buildings are still visible in the park's campground and picnic area.<ref name="Brochure" />
In 1957, the [[Minnesota Legislature]] established Brule River State Park and appropriated US$5,000 ({{Inflation|US|5000|1957|fmt=eq}}) to purchase privately owned land within the {{convert|940|acre|ha|adj=on}} statutory boundaries.<ref name="Brochure" /><ref name="Meyer" /> Clarence Magney, who had been instrumental in creating eleven state parks and waysides on the North Shore, died on May 14, 1962.  The next year the park was renamed in his honor, and in 1965 Judge C. R. Magney State Park was expanded to {{convert|4500|acre|ha}} by adding the section upstream from the Devil's Kettle.<ref name="Meyer" />  Development remained limited to a small campground, a picnic area, and the trail to the waterfalls.  In 1987, a trail was added on the west bank of the river.<ref name="Meyer" />
== Recreation ==
{{stack|[[File:Brule River Fall Colors - Judge CR Magney State Park, Minnesota (37177116850).jpg|thumb|The Brule River in Judge C. R. Magney State Park.]]}}
Amenities are confined to the southern third of Judge C. R. Magney State Park.  The summer-only campground has 27 sites and a sanitation building with flush toilets and showers.<ref name="Website" />  The historic, privately owned [[Naniboujou Club Lodge]] provides hotel accommodations directly across from the park entrance.  The park has {{convert|9|mi|km}} of hiking trails.<ref name="Website" /> The main hike is a strenuous {{convert|1.1|mi|km|adj=on}} walk to the Devil's Kettle and Upper and Lower Falls, featuring nearly 200 stairs.<ref name="Wallinga" /> This route is part of the [[Superior Hiking Trail]], which swings through the park but dead-ended here until August 2003, when the northernmost {{convert|9|mi|km}} were completed to the Canada–US border.<ref name="Cook" />
The Brule River is popular for its angling opportunities, as the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources has been [[fish stocking|stocking]] it with rainbow trout since 1930.<ref name="Plan" /> The river also contains introduced [[brook trout]], [[chinook salmon]], and [[pink salmon]] during their respective spawning seasons. Anglers occasionally catch [[smallmouth bass]] and [[northern pike]] that entered the river from lakes upstream.<ref name="Plan" />
The Brule River also provides [[whitewater kayaking]] for experienced paddlers, who begin upstream of the park boundary and must [[portage]] around several stretches.<ref name="Plan" /><ref>{{Cite web | last = Umhoefer | first = Jim | title = Judge C.R. Magney State Park Log | publisher = Minnesota Trails | url = http://mntrails.com/trail-log/judge-cr-magney-state-park-log | access-date = 2010-04-05}}</ref>
It is a pristine place for amateur astronomy related activities with binoculars and small telescopes, plus night photography of the milky way due to it being the only state park in Minnesota that has minimal levels of light pollution.<ref>{{Cite web|last=R|first=Mike|date=2021-08-22|title=State Park Bortle 1 Scale Information In The US|url=https://cosmospnw.com/state-park-bortle-1-scale-information-in-the-us/|access-date=2022-01-24|website=CosmosPNW|language=en-US}}</ref>
== Media appearances ==
The Devil's Kettle is featured in the crime novel ''The Big Law'' (1998) by Chuck Logan.
The horror film ''[[Jennifer's Body]]'' (2009) depicts a highly fictionalized version of the falls and a wholly fictitious town named after them.{{citation needed|date=September 2022}}
Naniboujou Lodge and the Devil's Kettle Falls are featured in the mystery anthology ''Sew Far, So Good'' (2009) by [[Monica Ferris]].{{citation needed|date=September 2022}}
In two historical novels by acclaimed Minnesota author [[Peter Geye]], ''The Lighthouse Road'' (2012) and ''Wintering'' (2016), this feature appears as The Devil's Maw, and is an important part of the plot.{{citation needed|date=September 2022}}
== References ==
{{reflist|1}}
==Bibliography==
* {{cite web |last=Collins |first=Bob |date=2016-05-24 |url=http://blogs.mprnews.org/newscut/2016/05/the-mystery-of-devils-kettle-falls/ |title=The mystery of Devil’s Kettle Falls |work=MPR News }} (Article on falls with drone video from above the falls.)
== External links ==
{{commons category|Judge C. R. Magney State Park}}
* [http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/judge_cr_magney/index.html Judge C.R. Magney State Park]
{{Protected Areas of Minnesota}}
{{authority control}}
[[Category:1957 establishments in Minnesota]]
[[Category:Protected areas established in 1957]]
[[Category:Protected areas of Cook County, Minnesota]]
[[Category:Rock formations of Minnesota]]
[[Category:State parks of Minnesota]]
[[Category:Waterfalls of Minnesota]]
[[Category:Works Progress Administration in Minnesota]]
[[Category:Landforms of Cook County, Minnesota]]