View source for Kasuti

{{short description|Traditional form of folk embroidery practised in the state of Karnataka, India.}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2020}}
{{Use Indian English|date=January 2020}}
[[File:ರವಿಕೆ - ವ&ಅ ಮುಸೆಉಮ್.jpg|right|thumb|280px|Kasuti embroidery work on [[Choli|Ravike]] ca. 1855–1879. ]]
'''Kasuti''' ({{langx|kn|ಕಸೂತಿ}}) is a traditional form of folk embroidery practised in the state of [[Karnataka]], [[India]].<ref name="kasu">An [[exhibition]] of Kasuti work is reported by {{cite news|url=http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/mp/2007/03/15/stories/2007031501430200.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071001000117/http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/mp/2007/03/15/stories/2007031501430200.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=2007-10-01|title=Exhibition of Kasuti work|access-date=2007-04-22|location=Chennai, India|work=[[The Hindu]]|date=2007-03-15}}</ref> Kasuti work which is very intricate sometimes involves putting up to 5,000 stitches by hand and is traditionally made on dresswear like [[Ilkal saree|Ilkal]] sarees, [[Choli|Ravike]]/[[Kuppasa(Khana)]] and [[Achkan|Angi]]. The [[Karnataka]] Handicrafts Development Corporation (KHDC) holds a [[geographical indications]] (GI) protection for Kasuti embroidery which provides [[intellectual property]] rights on Kasuti to KHDC.<ref name="hist">History of Kasuti is mentioned by {{cite news|author=Govind D. Belgaumkar and Anil Kumar Sastry|url=http://www.hindu.com/2006/10/27/stories/2006102714680200.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070210153012/http://www.hindu.com/2006/10/27/stories/2006102714680200.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=2007-02-10|title=Unique symbols of Karnataka |access-date=2007-04-22|location=Chennai, India|work=[[The Hindu]]|date=2006-10-27}}</ref>
==History==
The history of Kasuti dates back to the [[Chalukya]] period.<ref name="hist" /> The name ''Kasuti'' is derived from the words ''Kai'' (meaning hand) and ''Suti/suttu'' (meaning wrap/weave), indicating an activity that is done using cotton and hands.<ref name="name">The origin of Kasuti is discussed by {{cite web
|author=Shyam Subbalakshmi B M
|url=http://www.deccanherald.com/deccanherald/nov23/sh1.asp
|title=Between the folds
|work=Online Edition of The Deccan Herald, dated 2003-11-23
|publisher=2003 The Printers (Mysore) Private Ltd.
|access-date=2007-04-22
|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070404094343/http://www.deccanherald.com/deccanherald/nov23/sh1.asp
|archive-date=2007-04-04
|url-status=dead
}}</ref> The women courtiers in the [[Mysore Kingdom]] in the 17th century were expected to be adept in 64 arts, with Kasuti being one of them.<ref name="name" /> The Kasuti embroidery features folk designs influenced by rangoli patterns of [[Karnataka]]. In Karnataka [[Sari|Sarees]] embroidered with Kasuti were expected to be a part of the bridal trousseau of which one saree made of black silk with Kasuti embroidery called ''Chandrakali saree'' was of premier importance.
==Kasuti work==
[[File:Kasuti embroidery.jpg|thumb|Motifs of kasuti embroidery]]
Kasuti work involves embroidering very intricate patterns like [[gopura]], [[chariot]], [[palanquin]], lamps and [[conch shell]]s. Locally available materials are used for Kasuti. The work is laborious and involves counting of each thread on the cloth. The patterns are stitched without using knots to ensure that both sides of the cloth look alike.<ref name="kasut">A detailed description of Kasuti work is provided by {{cite web|author=K. L. Kamat|url=http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/art/kasuti.htm|title=Kasooti – Traditional Embroidery |work=Online Webpage of Kamat's Potpourri|publisher=© 1996-2007 Kamat's Potpourri|access-date=2007-04-22}}</ref> Different varieties of stitches are employed to obtain the desired pattern. Four types of the stitches employed are ''Gavanthi'', ''Murgi'', ''Negi'' and ''Menthi''.<ref name="crafts">A brief description of Kasuti is provided by {{cite web|url=http://www.cimindia.net/Indian%20Crafts.pdf|title=Indian crafts|work=Online webpage of cimindia.net|publisher=2004, Conferences & Incentive Management (I) Pvt. Ltd.|access-date=2007-04-22|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070203094351/http://www.cimindia.net/Indian%20Crafts.pdf|archive-date=3 February 2007|url-status=dead}}</ref> ''Gavanthi'' is a double running stitch used for marking vertical, horizontal and diagonal lines, ''Murgi'' is a zig-zag stitch, ''Negi'' is a running stitch and ''Menthi'' is a cross stitch resembling fenugreek seeds.
==Current scenario==
Kasuti work has grown beyond its traditional boundaries to be used in other dress materials like the [[Mysore]] silk saree.<ref name="mys">Mysore silk sarees using Kasuti work is mentioned by
{{cite web|author=Aruna Chandaraju|url=http://www.hinduonnet.com/thehindu/mp/2005/03/05/stories/2005030502400300.htm|title=Modern MYSURU|work=Online Webpage of The Hindu, dated 2005-03-05|publisher=2005, The Hindu|access-date=2007-04-22|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20050508214803/http://www.hinduonnet.com/thehindu/mp/2005/03/05/stories/2005030502400300.htm|archive-date=8 May 2005|url-status=usurped}}</ref> A Kasuti centre was set up in [[Hubli]], [[Karnataka]] by the Department of Social Welfare, Government of [[Karnataka]] to encourage the Kasuti culture and also provide a single roof for the [[rural women]] to showcase their craft.<ref name="hist" /> However Kasuti work is suffering from poor patronage with not many people willing to take the craft seriously; an indication of which is the closure of the ''Karnataka Kasuti'' classes by the JSS college in [[Dharwad]].<ref name="hist" />
<gallery>
Image:Kasuti.jpg|Kasuti embroidery work on silk depicting [[ratha]]
</gallery>
==See also==
* [[Bidriware]]
* [[Channapatna toys]]
* [[Ilkal saree]]
* [[Molakalmuru Sari]]
* [[Navalgund Durries]]
==Notes==
{{reflist}}
==External links==
* [http://Kamat.com Kamat's Potpourri - The History, Mystery, and Diversity of India]
{{Karnataka topics}}
{{Embroidery}}
[[Category:Culture of Karnataka]]
[[Category:Embroidery in India]]
[[Category:Geographical indications in Karnataka]]