View source for Soutache

{{Short description|Decorative braid used in the trimming of drapery or clothing}}
[[Image:VtSenateSoutache.jpg|thumb|right|200px|A curved border of soutache trim in drapery found in the [[Vermont Senate|Senate Chamber]] of the [[Vermont State House]]]]
[[File:Soutache mask.jpg|thumb|A beaded mask decorated with soutache]]
[[Image:Underbraider on Singer sewing machine.jpg|thumb|right|200px|An underbraider on a Singer sewing machine shown with soutache in place feeding under needle]]
'''Soutache''' ({{IPAc-en|s|uː|ˈ|t|æ|ʃ}}, {{respell|soo-TASH}}), also known as '''Russia braid''',<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Baker|first=William Henry|title=A Dictionary of Men's Wear|publisher=Britton Printing|year=1908|location=Cleveland}}</ref>{{Rp|209}} is a narrow flat decorative [[braid]], a type of [[galloon]], used in the trimming of drapery or clothing. Soutache is created by weaving a decorative thread around and between two parallel cords and completely covering the cores; this produces a piece of trim with a braided or herringbone pattern.<ref name="Sweet-McNamara">{{cite book |last1=Sweet-McNamara |first1=Amee |title=Soutache & Bead Embroidery |date=2013 |publisher=Kalmbach Books |isbn=978-0871167507 |page=6}}</ref> Often woven of metallic bullion thread, silk, or a blend of silk and wool,<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|239}} soutache began to be made of [[rayon]] and other synthetic fibers in the 20th century.{{citation needed|date=February 2019}}
== Uses ==
Soutache is used in [[passementerie]] to add decorations to textiles.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Bednar |first1=Nancy |last2=Pugh-Gannon |first2=Joann |title=Encyclopedia of Sewing Machine Techniques |date=2001 |publisher=Sterling Publishing Co |location=New York |isbn=0806963654 |pages=172–175 |chapter=Passementerie}}</ref> In clothing soutache is used to conceal seams or add embroidered decorations.
'''Tracing braid''' is narrow soutache trim used for decorating uniforms.<ref name=":1" /> {{Rp|298}} In military uniforms, edgings or loops of soutache in different widths and colors are used to indicate rank, particularly in hats.<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|112-113}} <ref>{{cite magazine |magazine=Textile America's Weekly Bulletin of Wool, Woolens, Dress Goods and Cloakings |date=28 August 1897 |page=47 |volume=1 |issue=20 |title=Fashions in Braids |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7joAAAAAMAAJ&q=soutache+fashion |access-date=8 February 2019}}</ref> In athletic uniforms, a contrasting soutache is sometimes used to trim the placket and outline numbers or players' names.<ref>{{cite news |last1=SD Hat Guy |title=Fort Wayne TinCaps Debut New Unis |url=https://www.gaslampball.com/2018/5/1/17307396/fort-wayne-tincaps-debut-new-unis-uniform-pinstripes-jersey-hat |access-date=8 February 2019 |work=Gaslamp Ball |publisher=Vox Media, Inc. |date=1 May 2018}}</ref>
The term is also used in [[bookbinding]], where a narrow soutache is applied at the top and bottom of a book back to reinforce the spine and provide a barrier to keep dust out of the binding.{{citation needed|reason=This seems to be referring to headbands, which are not made of soutache|date=February 2019}}
Soutache is incorporated into standalone accessories like jewelry, typically with beads.<ref name="Sweet-McNamara"/>
=== Use on uniforms ===
In the ''Specifications for the Uniform of the United States Army'' from 1917, there is a detailed description of the differing rows of soutache braid on the sleeve of full dress and special evening dress coats. A colonel would have a knot formed from five rows of 1/8" gold or gilt, a lieutenant colonel four rows, a major three, a captain two, and a first lieutenant would have one row. For an overcoat, 1/8" of black soutache would be used.<ref>{{Cite book|last=United States War Dept|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=3N5EAAAAIAAJ|title=Specifications for the Uniform of the United States Army, 1917|date=1917|publisher=U.S. Government Printing Office|language=en}}</ref>{{Rp|28}}
In France in 1889, gold and silver soutache appeared on the [[kepi]] (French military caps) and [[Dolman|dolmans]] of different military officials: the Chief of the Post would have one row of silver soutache, while the Director of the Telegraph would have five rows.<ref>{{Cite book|last=France Ministère de la guerre|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=SlFDAQAAMAAJ|title=Bulletin officiel de la guerre|date=1889|publisher=Charles-Lavauzelle.|pages=713|language=fr}}</ref>
== History ==
Soutache originated in France in the 15th century, and was used to trim clothing for the [[Aristocracy (class)|aristocracy]] and create jewelry.  By the 17th century, it joined other [[Trim (sewing)|trimmings]] such as ribbon and lace that were key elements of the fashions of the upper class, in France and beyond.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|last=Valious|first=Anneta|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846689485|title=Soutache : 30 gorgeous bead embroidery designs|date=2013|publisher=Lark Books|isbn=978-1-4547-0757-8|location=New York|pages=5–6|oclc=846689485}}</ref>
Soutache braid began to be used on uniforms in France under Napoleon in the early 19th century.<ref name=":0" /> It was also used on [[Ottoman Empire|Ottoman]] military and bureaucratic dress during the 19th century, and this use spread to other countries under Ottoman rule in the [[Levant]] and North Africa.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Jirousek|first=Charlotte|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1048050192|title=Ottoman dress & design in the West : a visual history of cultural exchange|date=2019|others=Sara Catterall|isbn=978-0-253-04219-4|location=Bloomington, Indiana|oclc=1048050192}}</ref>
With the Industrial Revolution and the increased availability of less expensive clothing and decorative trims, soutache began to be found on ready to wear clothing, making it within the reach of a wider range of people. Soutache came into its own with more elaborate Victorian clothing.<ref name=":0" />
An attachment known as an underbraider was made available for domestic sewing machines. This would feed soutache directly under the needle on the reverse side of the fabric so that designs could be stitched by machine. Manuals and reference books from the middle of the twentieth century indicate that it was very popular at that time, for example {{cite book|title=Singer Sewing Skills Reference Book|date=1957|publisher=Singer Sewing Machine Company|page=20}}
==References==
===Citations===
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==Continue reading==
{{Portal|Textile arts}}
* {{cite book|last1=Pegler|first1=Martin M.|title=The Dictionary of Interior Design|date=1983|publisher=Fairchild Publications|location=New York|isbn=0870054473}}
{{sewing}}
[[Category:Notions (sewing)]]
[[Category:Embroidery]]
[[Category:Decorative ropework]]
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