View source for Sundgau

{{Short description|Area in Alsace, France}}
{| class="wikitable" align="right"
|-
! colspan="2" style="background:#6cf;"| Sundgau
|-
| Land Area || 663&nbsp;km<sup>2</sup>
|-
| Population || 61 841 inhabitants (1999)
|-
| Capital || [[Altkirch]]
|-
| Cantons || 4
|-
| Communes || 112
|}
'''Sundgau''' ({{IPA|fr|suŋɡo}}<ref>{{Citation|title=La 15e édition des Carpailles dans le Sundgau|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wwu6CJRwwLo&t=29s |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211221/Wwu6CJRwwLo |archive-date=2021-12-21 |url-status=live|accessdate=2021-09-08}}{{cbignore}}</ref><ref>{{Citation|title=Sundgau : des incendies criminels visent les antennes-relais|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ff-eR5Qd7o0&t=47s |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211221/ff-eR5Qd7o0 |archive-date=2021-12-21 |url-status=live|accessdate=2021-09-08}}{{cbignore}}</ref> or {{IPA|fr|syŋɡo|}};<ref>{{Citation|title=Le Sundgau, terre solaire?|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVExm8X1eBk&t=1s |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211221/zVExm8X1eBk |archive-date=2021-12-21 |url-status=live|accessdate=2021-09-08}}{{cbignore}}</ref><ref>{{Citation|title=Dans le Sundgau, la carpe frite se déguste... en glace|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZCNrucpF20&t=2s |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211221/KZCNrucpF20 |archive-date=2021-12-21 |url-status=live|accessdate=2021-09-08}}{{cbignore}}</ref> {{IPA|de|ˈzʊntɡaʊ|lang}}) is a geographical territory in the southern [[Alsace]] region ([[Haut Rhin]] and [[Territoire de Belfort|Belfort]]), on the eastern edge of [[France]]. The name is derived from [[Alemannic German]] ''Sunt-[[Gau (territory)|gowe]]'' ("South shire"), denoting an [[List of Alamannic pagi|Alemannic county]] in the [[Old High German]] period. The principal city and historical capital is [[Altkirch]].
The considerably smaller French [[Pays (France)|pays]] of Sundgau, implemented by the 1999 Loi Voynet, roughly corresponds to the [[arrondissement of Altkirch]], comprising four [[Cantons of France|cantons]] and 112 [[Communes of France|communes]] in the south of the larger Sundgau region.
==Geography==
[[File:SundgauViaduc2.jpg|thumb|Viaduct of Dannemarie (Dammerkirch)]]
The hilly region is bounded on the south by the [[Switzerland|Swiss]] border and the foothills of the [[Jura mountains|Jura]], in the east by the valley of the [[Rhine River|Rhine]] in the vicinity of [[Basel]], to the north by [[Mulhouse]] and the potassium-rich basin of Alsace, and to the west by the [[Belfort]] Gap. It comprises parts of the modern [[Department of Haut-Rhin]] and the [[Territory of Belfort]] in the [[Regions of France|regions]] of [[Alsace]] and the [[Franche-Comté]].
The fertile [[loess]] soil has traditionally favoured a non-specialised [[agriculture]], with crop production being largely organised into strips. The main crops are [[maize]], [[wheat]] and [[colza]].
The [[Ill (France)|Ill]], the most important river in Alsace aside from the [[Rhine]], crosses Sundgau from south to north before flowing into the Rhine near [[Strasbourg]]. Its source is at [[Winkel, France|Winkel]] in the foothills of the Jura. Other rivers define the region's valleys, such as the Largue, which rises near [[Courtavon]], passes through [[Dannemarie, Haut-Rhin|Dannemarie]], and meets the Ill at [[Illfurth]].
In medieval times, monks raised [[carp]] in the small valley ponds and ''carpe frite'' (''fried carp'') remains a regional speciality. The images of two carp also appear in the [[coat of arms]] of Sundgau.
==Prehistory==
[[Excavation (archaeology)|Archaeological digs]] have revealed vestiges of palaeolithic and [[Neolithic]] settlements. Traces of [[Bronze Age]] cremation pyres have also been found. Excavations at [[Illfurth]] date from the [[Iron Age]] (650 BC to 430 BC).
==History==
In the 1st century BC, the [[Sequani]] tribe (the most "Gaulish of [[Gaul]]s" according to historian [[Henri Martin (historian)|Henri Martin]]), which was centered around [[Besançon]], settled in Sundgau. From 70 BC, they waged perpetual warfare with their neighbours, the [[Aedui]], calling upon German mercenaries, led by [[Ariovistus]]. When the conflict finished, the Germans settled into the region, and the Sequani, to remove them appealed to the [[Ancient Rome|Romans]]. [[Julius Caesar]] defeated Ariovistus in 58 BC near [[Cernay, Haut-Rhin|Cernay]], and a long domination by the Romans commenced. This ended suddenly in 405, when the Alamani crossed the Rhine and occupied Sundgau. They, in turn, were followed by the [[Franks]] following their victory at the [[Battle of Tolbiac]] in 496. Sundgau was incorporated into the kingdom of [[Austrasia]] and [[Christianity]] was introduced under the [[Merovingians]].
===Francia===
[[File:Heiliges Römisches Reich 1000-Alsatia.png|thumb|Alsace about 1000, divided into Nordgau and Sundgau]]
[[Image:ChateauDeFerette.jpg|thumb|left|{{lang|fr|[[Château de Ferrette]]}} ({{lang|de|Schloß Pfirt}})]]
About 750, the [[Duchy of Alsace]] was divided into two counties: Nordgau ({{lang|de|[[Bas-Rhin|Unterelsass]]}}) and Sundgau, the latter being mentioned in the [[Treaty of Mersen]] in 870. Historically then, Sundgau coincides with the lands of the counts of Ferrette and [[Habsburg]], excepting the town of [[Mulhouse]] and its territories of [[Illzach]] and {{Interlanguage link|Modenheim|fr}}. Geographically, Sundgau denotes a more restricted area comprising the hilly country to the south of Mulhouse and reaching to the valley of [[Lucelle]].
During the 9th century and the 10th century Sundgau was administered by the [[Lieutfried]] family. Following the breakup of [[Charlemagne]]'s empire, the region entered a period of instability, culminating in the emergence of [[feudalism]]. From 925 on, the Sundgau belonged to the [[Duchy of Swabia]]; it remained a part of Swabia until the Duchy disintegrated in the 13th century.
===Holy Roman Empire===
{{Infobox country
|native_name            = {{native name|de|Landgrafschaft Sundgau}}<br />{{native name|fr|Landgraviat Sundgau}}
|conventional_long_name = Landgraviate of Sundgau
|common_name            = Sundgau
|
|era                    = Middle Ages
|status                 = Vassal
|empire                 = Holy Roman Empire
|government_type        = Principality
|
|year_start             = 750s
|year_end               = 1648
|
|event_pre              = [[Duchy of Alsace|Alsace]] partitioned in twain
|date_pre               = 750s
|event_start            = [[Landgraviate]] established
|date_start             = <!--- Optional: Date of establishment, as 1 January 1801--->
|event1                 = To [[Habsburg]]s
|date_event1            = 1135
|event_end              = Sold to [[Early modern France|France]]
|date_end               = <!--- Optional: Date of disestablishment --->
|
|p1                     = Duchy of Alsace
|image_p1               = [[Image:Blason région fr Alsace.svg|20px|Duchy of Alsace]]
|s1                     = Early modern France
|flag_s1                = Royal Standard of the King of France.svg
|
|capital                = Altkirch
|
|footnotes              = <!--- Accepts wikilinks --->
}}
In 1125, [[Frederick I of Ferrette|Frederic]], son of [[Theodoric I, Count of Montbéliard|Theodoric I of Montbéliard]], inherited the south of Alsace and became [[Count of Ferrette]]. So, from 1125 to 1324, a large part of the Sundgau was administered by the counts of Ferrette. Ulrich III (1310–1324) conquered the valley of [[Saint-Amarin]] but died with no male [[Issue (legal)|issue]]. His daughter Jeanne married [[Albert II, Duke of Austria]] in 1324, and the County of Ferrette fell to Austria and was integrated with the other Habsburg possessions in the area.
The '''[[Landgraviate]] of Sundgau''' (also known as '''Landgraviate of Upper Alsace'''), the successor of the Carolingian county, had been administered by the counts of [[Habsburg]] since 1135. They had owned the adjacent County of Sundgau even earlier. The Habsburgs enlarged their possessions in the area with numerous acquisitions in the following centuries, until by the mid-14th century almost all of the former Carolingian county was in the possession of Habsburg. Their consolidated territories in the area became known simply as the Sundgau, and belonged to the [[Austrian Circle]] of the Empire after 1512. The Habsburgian Sundgau was administered from [[Ensisheim]] by a ''bailli'' ([[bailiff]] or [[seneschal]]) and divided into four bailiwicks ([[Landser, Haut-Rhin|Landser]], [[Thann, Haut-Rhin|Thann]], [[Altkirch]] and [[Ferrette]]). [[Enguerrand VII, Lord of Coucy]] tried unsuccessfully to claim the Sundgau during the [[Gugler War]] of 1375.
As of 1500, the Austrian Sundgau encompassed most of the southern Alsace and was bordered by the following states (from the north, clockwise): Imperial City of [[Colmar]], [[County of Württemberg]], the Austrian [[Breisgau]], the [[Margraviate of Baden]], the Imperial City of [[Basel]], the [[Prince-Bishopric of Basel]], the County of Württemberg ([[County of Montbéliard]]), the [[Duchy of Lorraine]], the [[Abbacy of Murbach]], and the [[Prince-Bishopric of Strasbourg]] (the ''Mundat''). The Imperial City of [[Mulhouse]] formed an enclave surrounded by the Sundgau.
[[File:SundgauChapelle 3.jpg|thumb|The countryside between Bréchaumont and Elbach]]
The [[Protestant Reformation|Reformation]] did not trouble Sundgau, despite the proximity of Basel and Mulhouse. The country maintained its fidelity to the religion of the [[Habsburg]]s, [[Catholicism]].
Commencing in 1632, the [[Thirty Years' War]] broke upon Sundgau, with a violence unprecedented in the history of the region. The [[Sweden|Swedish]], supported by France, invaded the country, pillaging and burning all in their path. In reaction, the inhabitants of the countryside revolted. But the rebellion was subdued, and the Swedes hanged the ringleaders from roadside trees. From 1634, the Swedes ceded their fortresses to the French, and in 1648 the war ended with the [[Treaty of Westphalia]]. The butcher's bill was disastrous – some parts of Sundgau had lost up to 80% of their population. The country, only German speaking at that time, was conquered and annexed by France, and in 1659, the counthood of Ferrette was granted to [[Cardinal Mazarin]] (nominally by the then 21-year-old [[Louis XIV]]).
===France and Germany===
[[Image:SundgauRevolu11.jpg|thumb|Engraving of Altkirch in the 18th century]]
The beginning of the 18th century was a period of prosperity with the development of agriculture and [[Textile|textile industry]]. But economic and social conditions deteriorated in the second half of the century, with overpowering taxation, and occasional famines.
In 1789, the repercussions of the [[French Revolution]] reached Sundgau, and many conflicts arose in the townships, mainly due to the unpopularity of the [[ruling class]]es. In 1790, Sundgau was included into the département of [[Haut-Rhin]], and Altkirch became its principal town.
Order was restored during the [[French Consulate|Consulate]] and the [[First French Empire|Empire]]. Little changed during the 19th century, agriculture remaining the principal economic activity, despite the establishment of industries such as the Gilardoni tileworks in 1835 and the construction of Xavier Jourdains' looms in Altkirch.
<!--[[Image:GilardoniTileworks.jpg|thumb|Gilardoni tileworks]]-->
As a result of the 1870 [[Franco-Prussian War]], Sundgau returned to [[German Empire|Germany]] as part of the Imperial territory of [[Alsace-Lorraine]]. [[Economic development]] picked up, and the region opened up to the rest of Alsace, for want of trade with France.
The battles of the [[First World War]] commenced in Sundgau in August 1914. The French blew up the viaduct of [[Dannemarie, Haut-Rhin|Dannemarie]], and the front stabilised and extended from the [[Vosges]] to the Swiss frontier. The population suffered artillery bombardments and, for fear of spying, many were evacuated into those communes untouched by war.
Sundgau reverted to France in 1918, but its reintegration posed several problems; since Alsace was [[German language|German]] speaking, they now saw themselves obliged to express themselves in [[French language|French]]. By way of derogation, German was taught in schools for three hours a week. The administration was only in [[French language|French]] and the mayor was appointed by the French government.
Between the wars, 56% of the population worked in agriculture, 28% in [[Industrial sector|industry]] and only 7% in [[Service Sector|services]].
[[Image:Char magny 1.jpg|thumb|Magny Monument]]
In the [[Second World War]] after the declaration of war, the communes bordering on the Rhine were evacuated. The German army crossed the river on 15 June 1940. Following the [[Armistice]] of 22 June, Sundgau was once again in German hands. Elsaßian [[Jews]], a few [[North Africa]]ns and French-speakers were expelled to the ''free zone'' between it and [[Vichy France]].  Pre-1918 German names of communes were restored, and the school system reverted to speaking only German.  Youngsters were enrolled in [[Hitler Youth]] from 1942.
From then also, men born between 1914 and 1925 were drafted in the [[Wehrmacht]].
General [[Jean de Lattre de Tassigny]]'s troops reached the Sundgau in November 1944, with Seppois-le-Bas (Nieder Seppbach) being the first. As after the first World War, language issues arose. From 1945 to 1984 the use of German in newspapers was restricted to a maximum of 25% (despite the fact that the population was still mainly German speaking).
Post-war, there was a period of reconstruction and economic growth. [[Jean Fourastié]]'s ''[[Trente Glorieuses]]'', the thirty years of economic growth 1945 to 1973, ended by the first [[1973 oil crisis|Oil Crisis]], and the number of agricultural workers dropped year by year. More than 35% of the population currently work in services.
==Organisation==
Sundgau is an [[arrondissement in France|arrondissement]] (the [[arrondissement of Altkirch]]) and is divided into 4 cantons: Dannemarie, Altkirch, Hirsingue and Ferrette. These run roughly along a north–south axis (see map) and consist of 112 communes. These communes are in turn grouped into 8 communities and one village (Bernwiller) for economic and tourism promotion purposes.
<!--  Commented out because image was deleted: [[Image:CarteSundgau en.jpg|thumb|Communities of Sundgau]] -->
* The Community of communes of Porte d'Alsace: 33 communes
* The Community of communes of Alsatian Jura: 24 communes
* The Community of communes of Illfurth: 10 communes
* The Community of communes of Valley of the Largue: 9 communes
* The Community of communes of Altkirch: 4 communes
* The Community of communes of Hirsingue: 11 communes
* The Community of communes of Valley of Hundsbach: 12 communes
* The Community of communes of Ill and Gersbach: 9 communes
==Population==
The [[population]] reached 61,841 inhabitants in 1999 (up from 57,112 in 1990), an increase of 8.3%. Thus it paralleled the [[demography|demographic]] growth both of Haut-Rhin (which showed an increase of 5.3% in the same period), and, more broadly, that of Alsace itself, (which showed an increase of 6.8%).
[[Altkirch]] is the most populous of Sundgauvien communes, with 5,386 inhabitants (1999). This is followed by [[Hirsingue]] (2,057 inhabitants), then [[Dannemarie, Haut-Rhin|Dannemarie]] (2,011 inhabitants).
Notably, 70% of the population is spread out among 103 communes of less than 1,000 inhabitants each. Finally, 19.2% of the inhabitants are aged under 15, while 19.3% are over 60. As in the remainder of France, the proportion of over-60s is growing.
==Economy==
Sundgau remains primarily an agricultural region with traditional activities. Important urban centres immediately outside Sundgau such as the tri-national [[conurbation]]  of [[Basel]], the urbanised area of [[Belfort]]-[[Montbéliard]]-[[Sochaux]], and the [[Mulhouse]] conurbation, are attractive as providers of goods, services, and employment. Qualifications are lower and revenues higher as a result of border area employment and its economic and social impact.
Nevertheless, Sundgau remains underequipped, notably for company startups. Although several enterprises have started during the last ten years, it is not sufficiently attractive as an employment basin because of the counterattractions of the nearby conurbations.
==Transport==
===Road network===
Sundgau is ringed by major roads, such as the A36 [[motorway]] between Belfort and Mulhouse, and the A35 toll-road, between Mulhouse and Basel; nevertheless, the elected representatives agree that the road network is outdated. Other important roadways are the D419, crossing the region from east to west between Belfort and Basel and passing through Dannemarie and Altkirch, and the North-South D432, passing through Illfurth, Altkirch, Hirsingue and Ferrette.
Several current projects aim at improving the road network and bypassing villages. These include diversions at Retzwiller and Dannemarie, and the Spechbach-le-Bas and Hochstatt bypasses. Another large project, the extension of the rapid road from Dornach as far as Altkirch, is under discussion.
===Railway network===
The Paris-[[Basel|Bâle]] line serves the towns of Dannemarie, Altkirch and Illfurth. Regional trains are relatively frequent, and useful for Sundgauviens working in Mulhouse or Belfort.
Work on a Dijon-Mulhouse line of the [[TGV]] Rhine-Rhône is [[LGV Est|planned to start]] in 2006.
===Canal network===
[[Image:SundgauCanal 1.jpg|thumb|[[Rhône]] to [[Rhine]] canal at [[Retzwiller]]]]
The [[canal]] from the Rhône to the Rhine crosses Sundgau by Montreux-Vieux, Dannemarie and Illfurth. It has existed since 1824 and was conceived by [[Louis de Freycinet|Freycinet]]. Nowadays, it is too narrow for large barges and serves mainly for pleasure craft.
A large project for the construction of a canal linking the Rhine to the Saône, passing along the Doubs, has been abandoned. Indirectly, it would have linked central Europe ([[Rhine]], [[Danube]], [[North Sea]] and [[Baltic Sea]]) to the [[Mediterranean]] without having to ship merchandise through the [[Straits of Gibraltar]]. But the anger of agriculturalists and environmentalists influenced the Minister of the Environment to abandon the project in 1998.
==Tourism==
The General Council of Haut-Rhin has taken an interest in Sundgau and in developing tourism in the region since 2000, along the lines of the management of the source of the Ill or the construction of a rest area on the route D419 near Chavannes-sur-l'étang. Sundgau is a region where the lifestyle permits the development of ''Green Tourism'' (i.e. where the visitor seeks calm, wishes to be in direct contact with nature, and has activities such as countryside walks and drives available).
==Heritage==
[[File:SundgauFeldbach 1.jpg|thumb|Church of Feldbach]]
* Château of Ferrette, the château of the counts of Ferrette
* Château of Morimont
* Château of Landskron
* Hundsbach Mill
* Ancient Cistercian abbey of Lucelle, destroyed during the Revolution, and rebuilt as a hotel
* Romanesque church of Feldbach
* Romanesque church of Altkirch
* Sundgauvien museum in Altkirch
* Hirtzbach (the village won 4 flowers in a national competition organised by the ''Conseil pour le Fleurissement de la France'' which promotes flower-planting)
==Notable Sundgauviens==
<!-- * [[Joseph Gilardoni]], founder of the Gilardoni cement factory  ???-->
* [[Xavier Jourdain]], textile industrialist (1798–1866)
* [[Jean-Jacques Henner]], painter (1829–1905)
* {{Interlanguage link|Charles Zumstein|fr}}, farmer-poet, diviner (1867-1963)
* [[Dominik Richert]], author of memoirs of the First World War (1893-1977 )
* {{Interlanguage link|Félis Voulot|fr|3=Félix Voulot (sculpteur)}}, sculptor (1899–1905)
* {{Interlanguage link|Daniel Zimmermann, novelist|fr|3=Daniel Zimmermann (écrivain)}}, educator (1935–2000)
Nathan Katz 1892- 1981 poet
==References==
{{Reflist}}
== Bibliography ==
* Claude Stadelmann, ''Le merveilleux existe. Contes et légendes du Sundgau'', 2005
==External links==
{{Commons category|Sundgau}}
* {{in lang|fr}} [https://web.archive.org/web/20050906211429/http://www.sundgau-histoire.asso.fr/histoire.htm Historical Society of Sundgau]
* {{in lang|fr}} [http://www.altkirch.net Events in Sundgau and Altkirch] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200929030257/http://www.altkirch.net/ |date=2020-09-29 }}
* {{in lang|de|fr}} [http://www.alsace-passion.com/ Alsace and Sundgau website]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20050728112630/http://www.jura-alsacien.net/ a detailed Alsatian Jura website]
* {{in lang|fr}} [http://www.guerres-sundgau.net the Sundgau through the wars]
{{Alsace topics}}
{{Authority control}}
[[Category:1648 disestablishments]]
[[Category:States and territories established in the 750s]]
[[Category:Geography of Haut-Rhin]]
[[Category:Carolingian counties]]
[[Category:Sequani]]
[[Category:History of Haut-Rhin]]
[[Category:Further Austria]]