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{{Infobox settlement <!--more fields are available for this Infobox--See Template:Infobox Settlement-->
| official_name          = Vareš
| native_name            = Вареш
| image_skyline          = File:Vareš 0311.jpg
| caption                = View on Vareš
| settlement_type        = [[List of cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina|Town]] and [[Municipalities of Bosnia and Herzegovina|municipality]]
|subdivision_type        = [[List of sovereign states|Country]]
|subdivision_name        = {{BIH}}
|subdivision_type1       = [[Political divisions of Bosnia and Herzegovina|Entity]]
|subdivision_name1       = [[Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina]]
|subdivision_type2       = [[Cantons of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina|Canton]]
|subdivision_name2       = {{Flag|Zenica-Doboj}}
| parts                  =
| image_shield           = Vareš.gif
| leader_title           = Municipal&nbsp;mayor
| leader_name            = Zdravko Marošević
| leader_party           = [[Croatian Democratic Alliance of Bosnia and Herzegovina|HDS]]
| area_total_km2         = 390.1
| population_total       = 8892
| population_urban       = 2917
| population_footnotes   =
| population_as_of       = 2013 census
| population_density_km2 = auto
| pushpin_map            = Bosnia and Herzegovina
| pushpin_label_position = <!-- the position of the pushpin label: left, right, top, bottom, none -->
| pushpin_map_caption    = Location of Vareš within Bosnia and Herzegovina
| pushpin_mapsize        =
| coordinates            = {{coord|44|09|43|N|18|19|37|E|region:BA_type:city|display=inline, title}}
| area_code              = +387 32
| timezone               = [[Central European Time|CET]]
| utc_offset             = +1
| timezone_DST           = [[Central European Summer Time|CEST]]
| utc_offset_DST         = +2
| website                = {{url|http://www.vares.info}}
}}
'''Vareš''' ({{lang-cyrl|Вареш}}) is a town and municipality located in [[Zenica-Doboj Canton]] of the [[Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina]], an entity of [[Bosnia and Herzegovina]]. It is situated in central Bosnia and Herzegovina, and is famous for the local [[mining]] activities and production of iron.<ref name="RFEVares">{{cite news |last1=Jelin - Dizdar |first1=Tina |title=Razglednica iz Vareša: Grad koji je uspio sačuvati zajednički život |url=https://www.slobodnaevropa.org/a/razglednica-iz-varesa/24935060.html |access-date=21 June 2018 |work=slobodnaevropa.org |date=22 March 2013 |language=sr}}</ref> As of 2013, it has a population of 8,892 inhabitants, with 2,917 in the town itself.<ref>{{cite web|title=Naseljena Mjesta 1991/2013|url=http://www.statistika.ba/?show=12&id=11100|publisher=Statistical Office of Bosnia and Herzegovina|accessdate=February 13, 2022|language=Bosnian}}</ref>
==Geography==
Vareš is a mountainous town located 45&nbsp;km from [[Sarajevo]] in the valley of the small Stavnja River 828 m above sea level surrounded by the massive high Kapija, Stijene, Zvijezda and Perun Mountains, named after [[Perun]] / Перун, the highest god of the [[Slavic pantheon]] ([[Perkūnas]]/[[Perkons]]).
==History==
===Early history===
The town of Vareš has a long history with remains of metallurgical activities dating back to [[Bronze Age]]. Also during the [[Roman Empire|Roman]] era, the town was famous for its miners and smiths.
===Middle ages===
During [[Middle Ages]] the [[List of Bosnian rulers|Bosnian kings]] had their center in close proximity of the modern city of Vareš. Bosnia's greatest king, Tvrtko, considered the Vareš' village Duboštica for the center of his kingdom, since it was the mining center of his country.
===Medieval===
The remains of the medieval royal city and castle [[Bobovac]] were recently proclaimed as national monuments, as was the Catholic Church of St. Michael in the town of Vareš. Oldest preserved Catholic church in Bosnia can be found in the town, built in early 17th century.
The town was earlier dominated by Catholic population. The church books are among the oldest preserved in Bosnia and date back to 1643.
===Austro-Hungarian Empire===
During the [[Austrian rule of Bosnia and Herzegovina]] the iron-works of Vareš were an important exporter of various iron products to the rest of the [[Habsburg monarchy|Habsburg empire]]. In 1891, the first blast furnace in Bosnia and Herzegovina was built there. That blast furnace still exists, but it ceased its operations in 1990.
===World War I===
In the 1910s [[World War I]], men of the town were subject to draft, and served in the regiment BH-1, formally based in Sarajevo. They mostly saw action in the Italian and Galician fronts. The church bell was taken and melted so it could be used to produce war material.
===World War II===
During [[World War II in Yugoslavia|World War II]], following the [[Invasion of Yugoslavia|invasion and occupation of Yugoslavia]], Vareš was incorporated into the fascist puppet [[Independent State of Croatia]] (NDH), and controlled by the Croatian [[Ustashe]] quislings, as an important mining center whose natural resources, mainly iron ore, was exploited to support the NDH war efforts. In April 1945, the town was eventually liberated by the [[Yugoslav Partisans]], and became a part of the [[Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia]].
===Bosnian War (1992–95)===
In April 1992, the [[Bosnian War]] began and lasted until December 1995. The town of Vareš had 12,000 residents at the time, with Croats being small majority. Since the first democratic elections in 1991 until October 1993, the municipality was governed by the [[Social Democratic Party of Bosnia and Herzegovina]], non-ethnic party, while the town's and municipality territory was under joint the [[Croatian Defence Council]] (HVO) and the [[Army of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina]] (ARBiH) control since the war begun. Despite the outbreak of the [[Croat-Bosniak War]], the relations between the local HVO and the ARBiH units remained relatively good until the summer of 1993. As a consequence of broader conflict deepening between Croats and Bosniak, especially in Central Bosnia, the ARBiH overran the HVO in nearby [[Kakanj]] resulting in few thousands of Croat refugees settling in Vareš.<ref name=cia>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jodpAAAAMAAJ|title=Balkan Battlegrounds: A Military History of the Yugoslav Conflict, 1990–1995, Volume 2|author=[[Central Intelligence Agency]], Office of Russian and European Analysis|publisher=Central Intelligence Agency|location=Washington, D.C.|year=2002|isbn=978-0-16-066472-4|page=437-440}}</ref> In October, the local HVO, supported by [[HDZ]] and structures of [[Herceg-Bosna]], took full control of the town, while most of the Bosniak population has been forced to leave or fled.{{sfn|CIA|2002b|pp=437–440}} On 23 October, dozens of Bosniaks were killed by the HVO in the [[Stupni Do massacre]].<ref name=cia/> Following the massacre, ARBiH attacked the Vareš enclave and captured the town in early November. Most of the Croat and some Serb population fled through the Serb lines to [[Kiseljak]] and [[Kreševo]], while the town was looted after its capture. The remaining HVO units took hold in the village of Daštansko, where they remained until the [[Dayton Agreement]] was signed in November 1995.<ref name=cia/>
Many Croat, most of Bosniaks and аn insignificant number of Serbs have returned to Vareš in 1995, but the majority emigrated to United States, Canada, Australia and other West European countries. Many Croats from Vareš ended up in Croatia while Serbs fled to Republika Srpska and Serbia.
== Culture and heritage ==
The town is rich with archeological findings from different epochs – on several surrounding locations are found remains of prehistorical period, such as copper artifacts in Brgula.
In the town center itself, there is the Old Stone Bridge that resembles to the majority of one-arched bridges from [[Ottoman Empire|Ottoman]] period. This bridge is considered to be similar by the building method to the [[Stari Most|Old Bridge]] in [[Mostar]]. The bridge is currently on the [[KONS]] Petition list for inscription on the [[List of National Monuments of Bosnia and Herzegovina]]. <ref name="kons.gov.ba-listapeticija-3443">{{cite web |title=List of petitions - Old stone bridge |url=http://aplikacija.kons.gov.ba/kons/public/listapeticija/show/3443?return=&search=idgrad:undefined:104 |access-date=12 June 2024 |website=kons.gov.ba}}</ref>
==Demographics==
According to the 2013 census results, it has a population 8,892 inhabitants. Population decline is evident since the end of the [[Bosnian War]], as nearly two thirds of the population from 1991 left Vareš in only twenty years.<ref name="2016overview">{{cite news |last1=Mujkić |first1=Semir |title=ŽIVOT NA TEKU: Vareš danas ima stanovnika koliko je nekada imao radnika |url=http://zurnal.info/novost/20001/vares-danas-ima-stanovnika-koliko-je-nekada-imao-radnika |access-date=21 June 2018 |work=zurnal.info |date=19 September 2016 |language=sr}}</ref>
{{Historical populations
| align = left
| clear = both
| percentages = pagr
|1971|23532 |1991|22203 |2013|8892
}}
{{clear}}
===Ethnic composition===
{| class="wikitable"
! colspan="8" |Ethnic composition – Vareš town
|-
|
|2013.
|1991.
|1971.
|-
|[[Bosniaks]]
|1,339 (45.9%)
|1,068 (18.13%)
| (-)
|-
|[[Croats of Bosnia and Herzegovina|Croats]]
|1,254 (43%)
|3,035 (51.54%)
| (-)
|-
|[[Serbs of Bosnia and Herzegovina|Serbs]]
|71 (2.4%)
|627 (10,64%)
| (-)
|-
|[[Yugoslavs]]
| (-)
|859 (14.58%)
| (-)
|-
|Others
| 253 (8.7%)
| 299 (5.07%)
| (-)
|-
|Total
|2,917 (100,0%)
|5,888 (100,0%)
| (-)
|}
{| class="wikitable"
! colspan="8" |Ethnic composition – Vareš municipality
|-
|
|2013.
|1991.
|1971.
|-
|Bosniaks
|5,447 (61.3%)
|6,714 (30.24%)
|6,631 (28.18%)
|-
|Croats
|2,820 (31.7%)
|9,016 (40.61%)
|11,134 (47.33%)
|-
|Serbs
|189 (2.1%)
|3,644 (16.41%)
|5,166 (21.96%)
|-
|Yugoslavs
| (-)
|2,071 (9.32%)
|307 (1.30%)
|-
|Others
|436 (4.9%)
|758 (3.44%)
|285 (1.23%)
|-
|Total
|8,892 (100,0%)
|22,203 (100,0%)
|23,523 (100,0%)
|}
==Settlements==
Aside from the town of Vareš, the municipality includes the following settlements:
{{div col|colwidth=15em}}
* Bijelo Borje
* Blaža
* [[Borovica|Borovica Donja]]
* [[Borovica|Borovica Gornja]]
* Borovičke Njive
* Brda* Brezik
* Brgule
* Budoželje
* Čamovine
* Ćeće
* Dabravine
* Daštansko
* Debela Međa
* Diknjići
* Dragovići
* Draževići
* Duboštica
* Hodžići
* Ivančevo
* Javornik
* Kadarići
* Karići
* Kokoščići
* Kolovići
* Kopališta
* Kopijari
* Krčevine
* Kunosići
* Letevci
* Ligatići
* Luke
* Ljepovići
* Mijakovići
* Mir
* Mižnović
* Mlakve
* Naseoci
* Neprivaj
* Oćevija
* Okruglica
* Orah
* Osoje
* Osredak
* Ostrlja
* Pajtov Han
* Pajtovići
* Planinica
* Pobilje
* Podjavor
* Pogar
* Položac
* Poljanice
* Pomenići
* Pržići
* Pržići Kolonija
* Radonjići
* Radoševići
* Ravne
* Rokoč
* Samari
* Semizova Ponikva
* Seoci
* Sjenokos
* Slavin
* Sršljenci
* Strica
* Striježevo
* Stupni Do
* Šikulje
* Tisovci
* Toljenak
* Tribija
* Vareš Majdan
* Vijaka Donja
* Vijaka Gornja
* Višnjići
* Zabrezje
* Zaruđe
* Zubeta
* Zvijezda,
* Žalja i Žižci
{{div col end}}
==Tourism==
The Vareš region also has possibilities for winter tourism development. Due to its position and elevation snow stays longer than in other regions, and the beautiful areas surrounding it are really good for skiing and skating. The mountain resort Doli is located on Zvijezda Mountain.
Artificially created [[Lake Nula]], about 500 meters long and 300 meters wide and 100 meters deep, is another important resource for the city. In addition to being a reservoir of clean, drinking water, the lake is in all plans of the city and municipality tourism organization, as an ideal place for leisure, including sport fishing and water sports and recreation.
==List of mayors==
* [[Ivica Džoja]] 1954–1963; [[KPJ|League of Communists of Yugoslavia]]
* [[Mile Markić]] 1963–197x; [[KPJ|League of Communists of Yugoslavia]]
* [[Slobodan Milanović (mayor)|Slobodan Milanović]] 197x–197x; [[KPJ|League of Communists of Yugoslavia]]
* [[Salko Operta]] 1974–1978; [[KPJ|League of Communists of Yugoslavia]]
* [[Rešad Žutić]] 1981–1983; [[KPJ|League of Communists of Yugoslavia]]
* [[Željko Franjkić]] 1986–1988; [[KPJ|League of Communists of Yugoslavia]]
* [[Pero Jarčević]] 1988–1989; [[KPJ|League of Communists of Yugoslavia]]
* [[Mladen Zovko]] 1989–1990; [[KPJ|League of Communists of Yugoslavia]]
* [[Dario Andrijević]] 1990–1992; [[KPJ]] - [[Social Democratic Party of Bosnia and Herzegovina|SDP BiH]]
* [[Anto Pejčinović]] 1992–1993 [[HDZ BiH]]
* [[Mervana Hadžimurtezić]] 1992–1998 [[Party of Democratic Action|SDA]]
* [[Samir Musa]] 1998–2000 [[Party of Democratic Action|SDA]] (joint mayor)
* [[Pavao Vidović]] 1998–2000 [[HDZ BiH]] (joint major)
* [[Ermin Musa]] 2000–2001 [[Party of Democratic Action|SDA]]
* [[Hamdo Fatić]] 2001–2012 [[Social Democratic Party of Bosnia and Herzegovina|SDP BiH]]
* [[Avdija Kovačević]] 2012–2016 [[Party of Democratic Action|SDA]]
* [[Zdravko Marošević]] 2016–present [[HDZ BiH]]
==Notable people==
* [[Boro Stjepanović|Borislav Stjepanović]], actor
* [[Ipe Ivandić]], musician
* [[Milo Cipra]], music composer
* [[Slaven Stjepanović]], footballer
* [[Željko Ivanković]], poet and writer
* [[Matija Divković]], Bosnian Franciscan writer
* [[Grgo Ilić|fra Grgo Ilić - Varešanin]] (1736-1813), Franciscan friar and bishop, served as provincial minister and apostolic vicar
* [[Grigorije Durić]]
==References==
{{reflist}}
==External links==
{{commons category|Vareš}}
* http://www.vares.pp.se/
* http://www.vares-x.com.ba/
* [http://www.vares.pp.se/bobovac/bobindex.htm  Web magazine with current information on the city - in Croatian]
* http://www.zupavares.com/
* http://www.vares.info/
* [http://www.bhtourism.ba/eng/tbk.wbsp Tragovima bosanskog kraljevstva] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304040748/http://www.bhtourism.ba/eng/tbk.wbsp |date=2016-03-04 }} - Tourist route for medieval Bosnia
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20100213103028/http://www.bosnae.ba/ Trail of the Bosnian Kingdom] - Cultural Tourism in Vares
{{Vareš municipality}}
{{Zenica-Doboj Canton}}
{{Political divisions of Bosnia and Herzegovina}}
{{Authority control}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Vares}}
[[Category:Cities and towns in the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina]]
[[Category:Populated places in Vareš]]
[[Category:Municipalities of Zenica-Doboj Canton]]
[[Category:Vareš Municipality| ]]