Speed climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Speed climbing
at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates28 May – 3 July 2021
Champions
MenIndonesia Veddriq Leonardo
WomenUnited States Emma Hunt
← 2019
2022 →

Speed climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup were to be held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.[1][2][3][4][5] The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.[6]

Overview

Date Location Venue Men Women
May, 28–30 United States Salt Lake City, United States Industry SLC[7] Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo Poland Aleksandra Mirosław
July, 1–3 Switzerland Villars, Switzerland Place du Rendez-Vous[8] Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo Russia Ekaterina Barashchuk
OVERALL WINNERS Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo United States Emma Hunt
NATIONAL TEAM Indonesia Indonesia

Records broken

See also: Speed climbing § Speed Climbing World Records and Champions
Event Round Climber Location Time Date
Men's speed Qualification Indonesia Kiromal Katibin Salt Lake City, USA 5.258[9] May 28, 2021
Final Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo Salt Lake City, USA 5.208[10] May 28, 2021

Competition format

The speed wall is standardized: 15 meters high, 5 degrees overhanging, same route. In the qualifications, athletes race in both lane a and lane b; only their best times are recorded and used for seeding. Sixteen fastest athletes in the qualifications progress into the finals where athletes are seeded and raced head-to-head against.each other.

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are four competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[11]

Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 200 1. 100 1. 100
2 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 145 2. 80 3. 65
3 Poland Marcin Dzieński 96 3. 65 11. 31
4 United States John Brosler 81 4. 55 13. 26
5 Russia Dmitrii Timofeev 80 — 2. 80
6 France Pierre Rebreyend 59 7. 43 18. 16
7 Russia Vladislav Deulin 55 — 4. 55
8 United States Merritt Ernsberger 51 5. 51 —
8 Iran Mehdi Alipour Shenazandifard 51 — 5. 51
10 Ukraine Yaroslav Tkach 50 8. 40 21. 10

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[12]

Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 United States Emma Hunt 131 2. 80 5. 51
2 Poland Patrycja Chudziak 120 4. 55 3. 65
3 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 100* 1. 100 —
3 Russia Ekaterina Barashchuk 100* — 1. 100
5 France Anouck Jaubert 94* 5. 51 7. 43
5 Poland Natalia Kalucka 94* 6. 47 6. 47
7 Russia Iuliia Kaplina 85 — 2. 80
8 France Capucine Viglione 74 8. 40 10. 34
9 Japan Miho Nonaka 65 3. 65 —
10 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 55 — 4. 55

* = Joint place with another athlete

National teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2021:[13] Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 Indonesia Indonesia 503 4. 180.0 2. 323.0
2 Poland Poland 447 2. 267.0 3. 180.0
3  United States 396.8 1. 276.0 5. 120.8
4 Russia Russia 384 — 1. 384.0
5  France 340 3. 207.0 4. 133.0
6 Japan 140.55 5. 139.55 15. 1.0
7 Italy Italy 132.5 7. 75.0 7. 57.5
8 Ukraine Ukraine 130 6. 95.0 10. 35.0
9 Austria Austria 101.8 8. 63.9 9. 37.9
10 Germany 85.85 9. 63.0 12. 22.85

Salt Lake City, United States (May, 28–30)

Men

38 men attended the event.[14] Kiromal Katibin of Indonesia set a world record time of 5.258 seconds in qualifying, a record that was broken the same day by fellow Indonesian, Veddriq Leonardo, who hit the buzzer at 5.20 in the final run against Katibin. Poland's Marcin Dzieński placed third after beating American John Brosler in the small final.[15][16]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
1st place, gold medalist(s) Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 5.37 5.55 5.42 5.38 5.20
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 5.25 5.49 wildcard 5.35 fall
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Poland Marcin Dzieński 5.90 6.22 5.88 5.77 5.84
4 United States John Brosler 5.60 5.72 5.98 5.76 6.89
5 United States Merritt Ernsberger 6.19 7.82 6.13
6 Japan Jun Yasukawa 6.253 6.18 6.23
7 France Pierre Rebreyend 6.14 5.94 FS
8 Ukraine Yaroslav Tkach 6.17 6.50 fall
9 Italy Ludovico Fossali 6.09 5.95
10 France Guillaume Moro 6.36 6.12
11 France Mickaël Mawem 6.28 6.79
12 United States Michael Finn-Henry 6.255 7.79
13 Italy Gian Luca Zodda 6.06 7.88
14 Ukraine Kostiantyn Pavlenko 6.02 8.28
15 Ecuador Carlos Granja 6.03 8.73
16 Germany Linus Bader 6.32 11.09

Women

24 women attended the event.[17] Poland's Aleksandra Mirosław took the win after winning a tight race against the United States' Emma Hunt who took second place. A non-speed-specialist Japan's Miho Nonaka placed third after beating Poland's Patrycja Chudziak in the small final.[15][16]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
1st place, gold medalist(s) Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 7.20 7.83 7.59 7.40 7.38
2nd place, silver medalist(s) United States Emma Hunt 7.52 7.61 7.62 7.77 7.53
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Miho Nonaka 8.58 8.50 8.20 8.36 8.95
4 Poland Patrycja Chudziak 8.28 8.16 8.18 8.37 10.40
5 France Anouck Jaubert 8.49 8.16 7.78
6 Poland Natalia Kalucka 7.68 9.59 8.48
7 Austria Alexandra Elmer 8.54 9.00 8.63
8 France Capucine Viglione 7.94 7.87 10.58
9 Germany Franziska Ritter 8.33 8.52
10 United States Callie Close 8.72 8.70
11 Ukraine Tetiana Kolkotina 8.68 8.95
12 United States Brooke Raboutou 9.36 9.55
13 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 9.12 10.20
14 United States Kyra Condie 8.43 10.82
15 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 8.36 14.47
16 Austria Laura Stöckler 8.77 14.94

Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)

Men

51 men attended the event.[18] Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo claimed his second consecutive win after beating Russia's Dmitrii Timofeev in the final race. Leonardo's teammate, Kiromal Katibin placed third after beating Russia's Vladislav Deulin in the small final.[19]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
1st place, gold medalist(s) Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 5.52 5.50 5.42 5.35 5.32
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia Dmitrii Timofeev 5.622 6.05 5.64 5.48 7.35
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 5.48 5.35 5.31 6.07 5.30
4 Russia Vladislav Deulin 5.756 5.67 5.62 5.51 5.38
5 Iran Mehdi Alipour Shenazandifard 5.734 6.78 5.68
6 Russia Aleksandr Shikov 5.67 6.07 5.72
7 Indonesia Alfian Muhammad Fajri 5.724 5.60 6.13
8 Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin 5.728 5.53 7.73
9 Indonesia Aspar Jaelolo 5.726 5.72
10 Russia Sergey Rukin 5.77 5.78
11 Poland Marcin Dzieński 5.71 5.80
12 Iran Reza Alipour Shenazandifard 5.54 5.81
13 United States John Brosler 5.757 6.11
14 United States Noah Bratschi 5.739 6.36
15 Russia Lev Rudatskiy 5.625 7.91
16 Italy Gian Luca Zodda 5.729 9.90

Women

40 women attended the event.[20] Russia's Ekaterina Barashchuk took her first World Cup gold medal after outracing her teammate and current world record holder Iuliia Kaplina in the final race. Poland's Patrycja Chudziak took third place after beating Indonesia's Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi in the small final.[19]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
1st place, gold medalist(s) Russia Ekaterina Barashchuk 7.61 7.59 7.28 7.30 7.30
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia Iuliia Kaplina 7.01 7.31 7.17 7.17 8.39
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Poland Patrycja Chudziak 7.56 7.60 7.42 7.50 7.73
4 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 7.34 7.33 7.02 fall 10.38
5 United States Emma Hunt 7.72 7.43 7.19
6 Poland Natalia Kalucka 7.28 8.29 7.47
7 France Anouck Jaubert 7.49 wildcard 7.52
8 Indonesia Rajiah Sallsabillah 7.24 7.19 fall
9 Poland Anna Brozek 7.84 7.61
10 France Capucine Viglione 8.00 7.68
11 Italy Giulia Randi 7.912 7.87
12 France Manon Lebon 8.14 8.00
13 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 7.916 8.01
14 Austria Laura Stöckler 8.07 8.57
15 Russia Elena Timofeeva 8.17 10.47
16 Indonesia Nurul Iqamah 7.918 FS

References

  1. ↑ "Sport climbing World Cup events in China cancelled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  2. ↑ "IFSC WORLD CUPS IN CHINA CANCELLED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  3. ↑ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP IN JAKARTA CANCELLED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-12.
  4. ↑ "IFSC Speed World Cup in Jakarta cancelled due to COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 11 September 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-12.
  5. ↑ "IFSC World Cup in Seoul cancelled less than two weeks before event". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 September 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
  6. ↑ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
  7. ↑ "2021 Salt Lake City info sheet".
  8. ↑ "2021 Villars info sheet".
  9. ↑ International Federation of Sport Climbing (2021-05-28), Kiromal Katibin DESTROYS the men's Speed world record!, retrieved 2021-05-29
  10. ↑ International Federation of Sport Climbing (2021-05-28), IFSC Boulder World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 - Men's and women's Speed finals, retrieved 2021-05-29
  11. ↑ "IFSC Speed World Cup 2021 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  12. ↑ "IFSC Speed World Cup 2021 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  13. ↑ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP 2021: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-07-04.
  14. ↑ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,S) - SALT LAKE CITY (USA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  15. ↑ 15.0 15.1 "Veddriq Leonardo sets new world record in Salt Lake City Speed World Cup". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  16. ↑ 16.0 16.1 "NEWS: IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Rnd 3): Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
  17. ↑ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,S) - SALT LAKE CITY (USA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  18. ↑ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  19. ↑ 19.0 19.1 "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  20. ↑ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
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