USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States.[ 1] As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering , lead climbing , and speed climbing , in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
USA Climbing receives sanctioning and is recognized by the following organizations:[ 1] the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC),[ 2] the International Olympic Committee (IOC),[ 3] and the United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee .[ 4] [ 1]
Competition history
Below is a brief timeline of American competition climbing history:[ 5]
1988 & 1989 – Stand-alone World Cup events at Snowbird, Utah, were organized by UIAA and the American Alpine Club.[ 6]
1994 – Junior National Championship organized by the American Sport Climbers Federation (ASCF) is created.
1998 – The ASCF became the Junior Competition Climbing Association (JCCA).
2002 – The JCCA expanded to include adult competitors and changed its name again to the United States Competition Climbing Association (USCCA).
2003 – USCCA decided to rename the organization to what it is called today, USA Climbing (USAC).
2004 – USAC took over operations of the American Bouldering Series (ABS).
Competition structure
Elite
Any eligible climber aged 16 and older that meets the USAC qualification criteria may compete at Elite Nationals. There are no Regional or Divisional competitions for Elite competitors. The winners in each gender/event (Lead, Speed and Bouldering) at Elite Nationals are considered the National Champions of the United States. The only caveat is that a foreign national cannot be the National Champion of the US. If a foreign national wins any gender/event the next highest placed citizen of the US in that gender/event is the National Champion.
Youth
Youth climbers are subdivided into 5 age groups. As of the 2024-25 season, USA Climbing no longer categorizes youth athletes using the Jr, A, B, C, D system. The age ranges are based on how old the competitor will be by the end of the season, not their current age:
U20 (19 years old)
U19 (17-18 years old)
U17 (15-16 years old)
U15 (13-14 years old)
U13 (≤12 years old)
The US is subdivided into 9 Divisions and 18 Regions.[ 7] Anyone may compete in local competitions. USA Climbing members, who have attended at least two local competitions and place in the top 26 in their region, may compete at their respective Regional Championships.[ 8] The top 10 competitors in each gender/category at Regionals receive an invitation to compete at their respective Divisional Championships. The top 6 competitors in each gender/category at the Divisional Championships receive an invitation to compete at the National Championships.[ 7] The top four climbers in each gender/category/event at the National Championships are considered to be the U.S. Youth National Team. Youth on the National Teams for Junior, A and B are eligible to compete at the Youth Pan American and Youth World Championships.
Collegiate
Provides access for undergraduate or graduate students that are currently enrolled at a college or university to compete in bouldering, lead and speed climbing.[ 9]
Adaptive
Adaptive provides access for athletes with physical disabilities to compete in both bouldering and lead/top rope climbing.[ 10]
Categories included in Adaptive are open to those with physical disabilities: Neurological / Physical Disability, Visual Impairment, Upper Extremity Amputee, Lower Extremity, Amputee, Seated, Youth.[ 10]
Elite bouldering
The following are the results for bouldering at Elite National Championship level.[ 11]
Male
Female
Elite lead
The following are the results for lead at Elite National Championship level[ 11]
Male
Female
Elite speed
Starting with the 2021 Speed National Championships, the US competition format was changed to match the IFSC speed climbing competition format. Prior to 2021, US Speed Climbing National Champions (and final ranking placements) were determined by the fastest climber to finish the speed route. As of 2021, US Speed National Champions were determined by the winners of the IFSC knockout format.
Male
Female
Current US speed climbing records
Beginning in 2023 USA Climbing established the same criteria as Elite to officially recognize Speed climbing records for the Youth age group categories. One criterion is that an officially recognized electronic timing system must be used. Historically, youth records were kept for developmental purposes since no official standards were utilized. Official Youth speed climbing records can only be set at USAC Youth Qualifying Events, USAC Youth Regional Championships, USAC Youth Divisional Championships, USAC Youth National Championships, IFSC Youth Pan American Championships, and IFSC Youth World Championships, and other USAC or IFSC sanctioned events in which youth age groups are contested. No records are kept for youth age groups C and D since the speed climbing routes are different at every competition.
Men's
15 meter
10 meter
Time (seconds)
Athlete
Time (seconds)
Athlete
Elite
4.74
Sam Watson[ 51]
3.95
John Brosler[ 47]
Junior
5.75
Logan Minor [ 52]
4.03
Noah Bratschi [ 53]
Youth A
5.32
Zach Hammer [ 54]
4.34
John Brosler[ 55]
Youth B
6.18
Sam Watson[ 56]
5.03
Michael Retoff[ 57]
Women's
15 meter
10 meter
Time (seconds)
Athlete
Time (seconds)
Athlete
Elite
6.38
Emma Hunt[ 58]
5.64
Claire Buhrfeind
Junior
7.55
Emma Hunt[ 56]
5.80
Piper Kelly[ 53]
Youth A
7.84
Sophia Curcio[ 59]
5.88
Grace McKeehan[ 60]
Youth B
7.96
Jojo Chi [ 54]
6.33
Sidney Trinidad[ 61]
History of the US speed climbing record
Beginning in 2019, USA Climbing established specific criteria for setting official National Records in the Elite Speed Climbing category. As such, the National Records below for the Elite category have been officially recognized by USA Climbing.
Men's National Record History
Date
Time (s)
Athlete
Location
Competition
April 28, 2023
5.02 [ 62]
Sam Watson
Seoul , South Korea
2023 IFSC World Cup
May 20, 2022
5.20[ 63]
John Brosler
Salt Lake City , Utah
2022 IFSC World Cup
May 28, 2021
5.60[ 64]
John Brosler
Salt Lake City , Utah
2021 IFSC World Cup
March 28, 2021
5.62[ 62]
John Brosler
Memphis , Tennessee
USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 28, 2021
5.85[ 62]
Noah Bratschi
Memphis , Tennessee
USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
January 20, 2019
5.99[ 65]
John Brosler
Salt Lake City , Utah
USA Climbing Combined Invitational
Women's National Record History
Date
Time (s)
Athlete
Location
Competition
August 10, 2023
6.67 [ 66]
Emma Hunt
Bern, Switzerland
2023 IFSC World Championships
July 2, 2023
6.68[ 67]
Emma Hunt
Villars, Switzerland
2023 IFSC World Cup
May 7, 2023
6.79[ 68]
Emma Hunt
Jakarta, Indonesia
2023 IFSC World Cup
April 28, 2023
6.82[ 69]
Emma Hunt
Seoul, Korea
2023 IFSC World Cup
Sept 10, 2022
6.84[ 70]
Emma Hunt
Edinburgh, Scotland
2022 IFSC World Cup
July 2, 2021
7.19[ 71]
Emma Hunt
Villars, Switzerland
2021 IFSC World Cup
July 2, 2021
7.43[ 71]
Emma Hunt
Villars, Switzerland
2021 IFSC World Cup
May 28, 2021
7.52[ 72]
Emma Hunt
Salt Lake City , Utah
2021 IFSC World Cup
March 29, 2021
7.56[ 62]
Emma Hunt
Memphis , Tennessee
USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 29, 2021
7.76[ 62]
Emma Hunt
Memphis , Tennessee
USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 29, 2021
7.95[ 62]
Emma Hunt
Memphis , Tennessee
USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 28, 2021
8.04[ 62]
Emma Hunt
Memphis , Tennessee
USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 1, 2020
8.05[ 73]
Emma Hunt
Los Angeles , California
IFSC Pan American Championships
Elite team (current)
The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events.[ 74]
Bouldering & Lead National Team – Men
Bouldering & Lead National Team – Women
Bouldering National Team – Men
Colin Duffy
Sean Bailey
Dillon Countryman
Ross Fulkerson
Luke Muehring
Bouldering National Team – Women
Speed National Team – Men
Noah Bratschi
John Brosler
Sam Watson
Merritt Ernsberger
Zach Hammer
Darren Skolnik
Quinn O'francia
Speed National Team – Women
Callie Close
Emma Hunt
Piper Kelly
Olivia Ma
Liberty Runnels
Sophia Curcio
Lead National Team – Men
Colin Duffy
Jesse Grupper
Sean Bailey
Hugo Hoyer
Luke Muehring
Lead National Team – Women
Elite team (historical)
2022 - The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events in 2022.[ 74]
Bouldering & Lead National Team – Men
Bouldering & Lead National Team – Women
Bouldering National Team – Men
Bouldering National Team – Women
Lead National Team – Men
Lead National Team – Women
Speed National Team – Men
Noah Bratschi
John Brosler
Merritt Ernsberger
Joe Goodacre
Sam Watson
Speed National Team – Women
Callie Close
Emma Hunt
Piper Kelly
Olivia Ma
Liberty Runnels
2021 - The athletes who represented the United States at International competition events in 2021.[ 75]
Men's Lead Team
Men's Speed Team
Men's Bouldering Team
Women's Lead Team
Women's Speed Team
Women's Bouldering Team
Youth bouldering
Male Junior
Female Junior
Male Youth A
Female Youth A
Male Youth B
Female Youth B
Male Youth C
Female Youth C
Male Youth D
Female Youth D
Youth lead
Male Junior
Female Junior
Male Youth A
Female Youth A
Male Youth B
Female Youth B
Male Youth C
Female Youth C
Male Youth D
Female Youth D
Youth speed
Male Junior
Female Junior
Male Youth A
Female Youth A
Male Youth B
Female Youth B
Male Youth C
Female Youth C
Male Youth D
Female Youth D
See also
References
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↑ IFSC, IFSC World Cup 2023
↑ USA Climbing, IFSC World Cup 2021
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↑ IFSC, World Cup 2023
↑ IFSC Pan American Championships , 2 March 2020
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↑ "USA Climbing 2021 National Team Trials: Highs and Lows" . April 1, 2021.
↑ 76.00 76.01 76.02 76.03 76.04 76.05 76.06 76.07 76.08 76.09 76.10 76.11 76.12 76.13 76.14 76.15 76.16 76.17 76.18 76.19 76.20 76.21 "USAC Results" . usacresults.org .
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↑ "Info" (PDF) . thriva.activenetwork.com .
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